Archive for the ‘Back Issue’ Category

Bathing With Beth Richards

Monday, October 22nd, 2012
Dive on in with swimwear designer Beth Richards
Photos and words by: Kate Brown
Remember summer? The temperature kicks up and then something else starts to boil: beach season--the onset of those few short, sandy months, when interest peaks in less clothes and more skin. But bathing suit shopping can be more stressful than the bikini wax to go with it. For this reason, swimwear designer Beth Richards sees her work as a kind of problem-solving. And as far as problems go, tackling the female body and swim culture these days makes for a bold project. "I built this collection so that all women could feel really confident about what I was making them," she says, thumbing through her newest collection for spring/summer 2013 which just launched last month. "I was really stumped by the fact I was making things that brought out women’s insecurities." Beth has an acute appreciation for the empowered female. She bases her line around timeless bold and beautiful women. There's Brigitte (Bardot) and Jolene (an homage to Dolly Parton, who wore a similar half-top in one of her performances). Then you have Maud (the Swedish vixen from 1983's Octopussy) and Faye (no other than Faye Dunaway). "Women would be like 'Oh it’s just me. I’m all legs. I’m all torso--don’t worry about it.' But I do worry about those things, a lot." Despite the inherent challenges designing swimwear, Beth Richards has had no trouble getting recognition for her more-is-more tailored designs. Even in a highly competitive market, where swimsuits are a quick commodity, the line had industry nods from the likes of French Vogue within its first season. And almost immediately after the launch, you could click on Beth Richards on online luxury shop Net-A-Porter, a few names above Mara Hoffman and Pucci. Not bad for a burgeoning designer who lives and works most of the year from Vancouver, miles and miles from New York and Paris fashion hubs. "Since the brand's inception, it has been my goal to present my work at a high level where it would be taken seriously," she explains. "It was and still is a huge compliment to be regarded as being a brand that could sit beside established houses." But Beth also credits Vancouver for much of her creative motivation. "When I got here I had no idea what to do, I would search vintage shops and find a cut that I like but it would have an insane tropical print," she recalls. "Usually plans evolve at the beach. The next thing you know you're all on bikes and you're going to a barbeque somewhere... Having a largely black collection makes it easy to merge in with your existing wardrobe." For both seasons, black has played a heavy role in her designs, but it doesn't exist alone. "I love the duality of having contrast, and that's black and white. It's very important to the line itself, so having more of the white involved was an easy thing to bring in." In the same vein of thinking, s/s '13 incorporates hard lines with lace, and adds some more gentleness to her chunky collection with a crop top or flowy mesh skirt, which doubles as a more playful functional rash guard. Looking around her beautiful downtown Vancouver apartment, it's clear that Beth's line is a total honest manifestation of herself. A minimalist at heart, her home is incredibly modern with elements of the old--black furniture and fresh white accents, with small touches of feminine. A vintage surfboard on the balcony, and by her samples, a canvas that says "locals only.' "I’m a huge fan of skate culture. Nick Fensom who does SNEEZE magazine shot our last two seasons and campaigns. Having a level of authenticity really matters to me," she says. "It's always an amalgamation of a lot of subtleties that really make a line what it is: locals only, Z boys, Brigitte Bardot, crosses, icons." Originally hailing from the much colder city of Toronto, Beth has been designing clothes and accessories for thirteen years (swimwear was always the long-term dream). A ballerina through her youth, she seemed destined for a career in dance. She was accepted to dance full-time in school, but the passion for it just wasn't there anymore. Maybe by chance or fate, she opted for an elective course in clothing design. Almost instantly, her energy for dance transformed into a passion for designing, and, with one look at her line, a devotion to movement and the body is clear in her work. Full pieces, bodysuits and last season's Cross legging shows an understated tribute to her past. Ever evolving but holding true to herself and what she loves is a promising way to continue growing in the design world. But creating beautiful swimsuits (with Italian fabric no less) that make women feel good will be an unchanging theme. "Not that we’re going to solve all the world’s body issues right here with this line, but if we can minimize them a little bit and make everyone feel a bit better and cooler at the same time, then that’s a good thing."

The Girls of Heavy Cream

Tuesday, May 29th, 2012
The girls behind Nashville punk band Heavy Cream hit punk's sweet spot
Words: Mish Way Photographs: Ivy Lovell
When most of us think of Nashville, we think of sticky hot summers, leaky old trucks, tall grass and charming Southern delights we can eat on a wooden stick. We don’t really think punk. Even more so, we don’t really think current. But, those of us who think this way could not be more wrong. In the past few years, Nashville has been pumping out note-worthy bands like The Ettes, Turbo Fruits, Pujol, but we’ve got our eye on the grimy, garage-punk outfit Heavy Cream. Heavy Cream kick started their career with their 2010 debut LP smash Danny, which sent the band to immediate underground-darling status. The record presented the band as a powerhouse of catchy, sing-a-long punk with scrambled melodies and playful beats. To follow up the success of their debut Danny, Heavy Cream traveled from Nashville to San Francisco to record their sophomore release Super Treatment with Ty Segall and Eric Bauer at the infamous Bauer Mansion. Heavy Cream has toured, a lot, often with JEFF The Brotherhood, Hunx and his Punx all around North America and back, solidifying them as a band to watch everywhere from SXSW to some dingy basement in North Carolina. The band’s stage presence is a concentration for critics who all focused on front woman Jessica McFarland bratty, jumping-bean excitement that fueled Heavy Cream’s exhibition, while Mimi Galbierz (guitar), Seth Sutton (bass) and Tiffany Minton (drums) provide the perfect mix of power, pop and punk. Their performance may be tight, but they don’t take themselves too seriously, playing with fashion on stage and attacking their personas full force. On their spring tour with Hunx and his Punx, front woman McFarland sported a one-piece leopard print jump suit at every show. “I consider my stage etiquette a character that I have created,” McFarland says. As a child, she was the quiet, serious kid who spent hours rummaging through her mother’s outfits looking for crazy costumes. “Dressing up helps me to physically separate my every day self from how I’m perceived as a performer. I think as a musician you owe it to your audience to have a unique aesthetic and fashion is a great way to achieve that.” “It really does make performing easier if you have stage clothes,” adds Minton. “Performing is sweaty, particularly for me, so one thing to stink up is better than everything you brought with you.” Growing up in and around Nashville, all the girls in the band (Note: Seth was not present for the interview, but we love him too) picked up their instruments later in life. Minton got her first drum kit at the end of high school and really perfected her skills playing with various bands as well as teaching at Southern Girls Rock Camp, while Galbriez only started playing guitar in college. “In my mind at the time, there was no way I could learn the guitar,” said Galbriez who was taught by a close friend. “I was already 20-years-old and learning an instrument was something you had to do when you were much younger.” MacFarland on the other hand toyed with almost every instrument from a young age, trying drums as a kid, trying guitar, and even playing and recording everything from percussion to teacups through a BOSS digital recorder in her first band MEEMAW. When MEEMAW broke up in 2009, she formed Heavy Cream. “I had always wanted to be a singer in a band, even though I didn't really consider myself a singer. I had a lot of energy and words that I needed to find a use for.” Though their new record has a darker, cut-open feel to the songs (MacFarland says most of the lyrics were inspired by small town life, death and being fucked over), Heavy Cream come off sweet in person. They joke about one another’s roles in the band when on tour: MacFarland hunts down the drink tickets, Mimi man’s the wheel and Minton is there to look after everyone when they have taken things too far. But, sweetness always saves before Minton needs to. “Mimi and I almost got in a fight once because I hit a girl with a bathroom stall door,” jokes MacFarland. “She cut us in the bathroom line! Right before she got in front of us and her and her friends were spraying their crotches with perfume. We fled the scene.” So, Heavy Cream doesn’t scrap with chicks in bathroom stalls like The Runaways did – a band they are often compared to – but that’s not what it means to be punk. Punk means doing whatever the hell you want, always. Besides genres and comparisons are for critics and journalists, not musicians. “We always get compared to The Runaways or The Ramones,” says Minton. “Which of course are influences that we share but the compliment becomes tired. Comparisons always seem moot or clichéd mostly because they are recycled.” Whether they like it or not, the one thing Heavy Cream have that The Ramones did too is style and that is a compliment that will never get tired.

Into the Desert

Friday, May 11th, 2012

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Photos by: The Eaton Sisters

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Oh Mandy-Lyn

Thursday, April 5th, 2012

Mandy-lyn, self portrait

By: Gillian Damborg
When talking to photographer Mandy-Lyn Antoniou, she is usually either picking up or dropping off film. She is always shooting and for good reasons. The world of images is moving fast - it’s a tumbling, blink of an eye pace where people are hungry for more and constantly moving on to the next thing. By the time you hit refresh, there are hundreds of thousands of new images on the web--it’s an all you can eat buffet and Mandy-Lyn is here to feed you. Mandy-lyn has a keen ability for catching the authentic "in between" moments--B-roll in a good way--and her work centers around women. She showcases female sexual power and though there is a lot of nudity, it’s not cheap. Wherever that inner attraction is, Mandy-Lyn brings it out. Your last name (Antoniou) is neat, does it mean anything? It's Cypriot. An old Greek lady once told me it means 'priceless.' What was your first camera? I started taking photos with disposable cameras, but my first 'real' camera was a hand-me-down from one of my Dad's girlfriends--a late 90's Nikon SLR. Women are almost always your subjects, why? Women were designed by the artist, men by the engineer. Both are beautiful, no doubt, but there's some kind of special poetry about a beautiful woman.

Above pantie pics are selects from Hubba Hubba Magazine Issue 2

Do people think you sleep with all the people you shoot? Terry Richardson style? This made me laugh out loud. I don't know what people think. What do you think? I think because you make women feel attractive, or maybe your approach is a bit flirty, I just felt like maybe it would get sexy or something. I remember asking you if you did and you talked about how you respect the women you are shooting and that its a totally different thing. But whatever it is, you feel a connection between the people being shot and you. There is something special there. That being said, I’ve been shot by you, so I feel I understand a little about how you work, but what is it about you that makes us girls want to take our clothes off? This made me laugh too. I wish there was some reliable combination of words that does it, that I could put it in a book and give it to everyone I know. Women are very complex...but it certainly begins with reverence and respect. When I take a photo of a girl, I get to get lost in her beauty. I want to take her out of her world and put her on a pedestal, into a fantasy, I want to immortalize her magic. I guess that women can feel it, when I do that. How does being a DJ play into being a photographer? Does it at all? It doesn't, really. Good music is just a cherry on the sundae, or the caramel sauce. What has been one of the best photoshoot experiences so far? When I shot Kristy J. with that flag around her, that was the first time I had seen something that came to life in my mind come to life before my eyes. It was a special moment, but I think you can see that in the photos. Would you rather shoot portraits in a more set up style, or off-the-cuff in the moment styles? (Yes we’re playing Would You Rather now). I think it's usually a mix of both. Whatever needs to happen. When you were 16, what did you think you would be doing now? I'm sure that every fiber of me hoped for something great. How did you get the idea for your short video "La Diabla"? I was sitting on a bus and that song, "Baby Please Don't Leave Me" by Buddy Guy came on my headphones. My mind took that music and went to a natural place, I guess. I saw a girl in a short dress with long hair swaying in the light, and it wouldn't leave me alone. I had to make it just so I could get all the dancing babes out of my head. They were making me crazy. How was filming different from photographing? Some of the girls I featured in La Diabla had never been on camera before, had only danced in their underwear alone and in front of the mirror. When I had to work with them, give them direction, I wasn't able to focus on the photography as much. Editing was a big experience for me. That's natural, but the process of it gave me a clearer, louder voice as far as meeting my own aesthetic expectations. I began to see then, that my creative vision was concise - I'm not sure if that made me more or less of a handful to work with. When is a girl too young to be photographed provocatively? My opinion is a little too controversial to print, and too long winded to get into. But in short, I think that as long as the subject is being photographed respectfully and responsibly, it's good, and we need it. Sexual arousal is a feeling that we've been taught to associate with guilt and fear. That's fucked up. To my mind, if you look at a beautiful 16-year-old girl and you experience excitement, that's normal. You didn't ask for it, it's human nature. The line is not in the feeling, it is in the doing. Do you have a personal manifesto or mantra of sorts? Anais Nin said "Life expands in accordance to ones courage," I remind myself of that often. But there is a great interview with Ira Glass--it's long, but he talks about how all of us who do creative work do it because we have good taste and when we start making work, as artists, well, it's got potential but it's just not that good and our good taste is the reason that we're disappointed. He reminds you that every intelligent, interesting creative goes through this. The most important thing you can do is work, work, work. Hard work, fighting for your good taste and that it closes the gap and you soon see yourself becoming as good as your ambitions. He's right. Don't give up and fight like a mother fucker and you're actually going to be great. I wish I had heard that quote when I was 16, so I like to share it with others when I can. Where do you see yourself in five years? I hope alive, happy, making changes, doing great things. What's  your favorite thing about being a woman? As I said, we're art. I wish all of us [women] could see that.

DAY BY DAY: SXSW MUSIC FESTIVAL

Wednesday, March 28th, 2012
Click here to see the next photo in our Day By Day: SXSW Music Festival photo essay, shot by Kate Brown. Click here to see the next photo in our Day By Day: SXSW Music Festival photo essay. Click here to see the next photo in our Day By Day: SXSW Music Festival photo essay. Click here to see the next photo in our Day By Day: SXSW Music Festival photo essay. Click here to see the next photo in our Day By Day: SXSW Music Festival photo essay. Click here to see the next photo in our Day By Day: SXSW Music Festival photo essay. Click here to see the next photo in our Day By Day: SXSW Music Festival photo essay.

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Seeing Double: Phlo Finister

Monday, March 26th, 2012
Seeing Double: Phlo Finister's strict Christian upbringing meets club kid giving her the skills to go far with her real passion--music R&B starlet Phlo Finister tweets a lot. The Los Angeles native’s 140-character-limited statements are littered with cryptic sentiments like “#YouthQuaker” or “#PosterGirl.” Phlo is telling us about herself, with hashtags. This year, Phlo hasn't just made a presence for herself on Twitter though. Her debut EP Crown Gold caught the attention of critics from Rolling Stone to The FADER to Complex. Tracks like “Shades” and “Wrong Number” displayed her soulful, gospel-inspired timing with pleasingly, smooth beats while “Bang Bang (My Baby Shot Me Down)” reinvents Nancy Sinatra’s classic. Phlo is even using multi-genre blending, samples from Garbage to 2 Pac spliced in with her own slinky vocals and radio-fuzzed phone conversations. Music videos followed, which featured Phlo playing dress-up in everything from signature early 90’s Tommy Hilfiger jeans (Aaliyah inspired, of course) to elegant Twiggy frocks and lavish eye make-up. It’s the 1960’s mod look she prefers, or rather, is obsessed with. But beneath those purposefully painted eyebrows is a woman with goals. “I was a rebel,” Phlo (whose given name is “Elijah”) reflects. Growing up in Los Angeles, her grandfather was a preacher and expectations for excellence in her academic, extra curricular and religious life were high. “I didn’t agree with my faith. I believe in God and a higher power, but I also believe in energy, other things that don’t go by the Christian way of thinking.” Her grandmother was an English teacher who made sure that attention to schooling didn’t stop when class let out. Phlo remembers even as a young child, play time after school often transformed into study time and her childhood was a lot of “foundational grounding” and “responsibility.” Music and dance also played a big role in her life including ballet training for 12 years. The graceful, disciplined pink-shoed sport created a work ethic within her that she still relies on today. “[With ballet] you do the same thing over and over again and try to be the best at it,” Phlo explains. “It stayed with me in my career. I had to do the same thing every day and practice until it was perfect and it’s become that way with music too.” As a teenager, Finister traded in her ballet slippers for more evening appropriate footwear. Finister had a fake I.D., wore tons of make-up and dressed “really, really grown.” No one questioned that she was only fifteen-years-old and she still let herself run wild and enjoy the faux-glamor of the club scene. Linking up with the Hollywood club kids, modeling for good friend Mark Hunter (or as he’s better known online as The Cobra Snake) and slinking into the Los Angeles A-List of hipsterdom. But, Finister took the industry with same skepticism she had with her family’s faith. “I didn’t like the industry at all,” she says. “I felt like it was everything I did not stand for. Girls go through different eating disorders and they go through insecurities and it’s a really fast life. You don’t get to show case any talent." So, on her eighteenth birthday Finister reached her turning point. She was sick of messing around aimlessly and decided she better smarten up. “This life is not a game. It’s not a joke,” Phlo lectures. “I had to make a sacrifice because life is about sacrifices." Today, Finister is entirely focused on her career. Her debut LP Youth Quaker drops later this year, so she is in and out of the studio, re-working tracks, tinkering the record to perfection. Continuing her obsession with mod, she plans to re-locate to London and use the British landscape as further inspiration. Though this "look" plays a large role for her, Phlo hasn't lost sight of the the things that really matter. "For me, I never wanted to be the girl who looked so beautiful, but had nothing to say.”

Interview: Mish Way Photography: Hayden Shiebler Styling: Natasha Newman-Thomas Assistant: Hillary Eaton Special Thanks: Cateye Spectacles