Archive for the ‘Issue 3’ Category
Issue #3 Cover
Monday, June 1st, 2009Bijules
Monday, June 1st, 2009Jules Kim, the designer behind NYC-based jewelry line Bijules, isn’t afraid to make a little magic happen. And got her start when she realized she was tired of working for other people and decided to start her own jewelry line. ‘I was really excited’ Jules says. ‘Because once you make that decision, you’re like oh my god I can do this.’ Innovative design is a hallmark of Bijules. One of her most creative pieces, the Gelfling Ear Tip rests behind the wearer’s ear and creates a golden, elf-like ear extension. It comes with 3 pennyweights of gold fairy dust, to complete your charmed transformation to Lord of the Bling. Never being one for convention, Jules has designed chocolate bar rings (dusted with gold, of course), and apparently spent her early years hustling for Slurpees. Says Jules, ‘When I was looking back at my old journals I was like, whoa girl did you just try to get a Slurpee with food stamps? I was hustling as a kid—it’s totally in my nature.’
After quitting her day job, Jules had that crucial big break when, during a DJ gig, a woman from Lucky magazine complimented her jewelry. Fortuitously it was a piece Jules had designed herself. With the promise to feature her in the magazine, Jules crafted the Lucky lady a piece of jewelry. She remembers riding on the 6 train and knowing the issue featuring her piece would be hitting stands that day. She could see the magazine stand from the train. The doors opened and she ran out. ‘It was one of those super hero vibes,’ Jules recollects. ‘Doors open slow. I got it and grabbed it and I just remember like bawling.’
With dry eyes and renewed drive Jules went on to make a name for herself in tastemaker culture, now designing for scenesters and celebrities alike. Her clients run the gamut from indie acts like Bat for Lashes to mega celebs like Beyonce, for who she just designed a set of gold diamond nails, which Bey will be wearing in the new Sweet Dreams video premiering in June. ‘I see girls in the ghetto like, ‘Eh Eh,’ [to the tune of Rihanna’ song Umbrella] and I’m like that’s my ring!’ While she thinks the people she’s designed for are cool in their own vein, Santigold was one of her favorites. ‘Santi was dope because she comes from my school, like similar age group we all hang out together and we all sort of grew up together in a New York kind of way.’ Bijules jewelry has been featured in the pages of some of the world’s biggest publications like Vogue, Elle and Spin. Jules hopes her jewelry will empower women, ‘I think that what you put on your body is self expression and its not only what you look like on the outside its also your desires and the way you communicate who you are on the inside and I think its important because with women we have all these thing that are going against us.’ Now that she has her staples styles down–like the nail rings and bar rings–she tells us she’s working on a high end line that’s developing, followed by a more affordable line made primarily out of non conventional materials such as recycled plastics.
Jules understands the inherent intimacy of jewelry, ‘There is always an intimate side to a designer and her personality which makes the work even more understandable. ‘So we got intimate with Jules, looking into her fridge, makeup bag, closet, jewelry box and of course her heart. With our featured artist Jody Rogac capturing the moments, our suspicions were confirmed: Everything in this lady’s life defies convention.
I haven’t eaten in 7 days. It’s a very odd feeling–I was doing the master cleanse. You drink lemon juice, cayenne pepper and maple syrup. So this is the only thing that’s in there I don‚Äôt even have any lemons cause I couldn’t even look at them anymore.
My clothes are in this little guy. Like in New York half of the places I lived in never had closets, so I just learned to do without them. The way that I dress is who I am and the jewelry speaks with it. So my jewelry being as loud as it is, my outfits normally go that far as well.
JEWELRY BOX

I like to hang my shit on the walls, so with my jewelry I hang it wherever I can put it. I don’t like displaying shit the way people expect to be seen–I think it’s boring. This is where I keep my hair earring. This is a bearing for a skateboard since he works for a skating company I had it plated in black gold.
MAKEUP BAG

MAC sponsored me a couple seasons ago so I have a lot of MAC stuff. I’d rather make something go crazy. I also use a lot of makeup in my jewelry. My mom was really out there creatively and she raised us as a single mom, so when she’d go out she’d like get dressed up and put like baby cream on her eyes. It’s like bright white circles so this is just passed down from my mom.
HEART
A book created by her and her twin when they were 3 years old.
Back Porch Barbecue
Monday, June 1st, 2009
The Ladies of Larsen Grey
Monday, June 1st, 2009Girls tend to feel awkward and misunderstood in high school. Never mind the puberty, pre-drinking and sloppy make outs; getting dressed is a feat of its own. Some of us, however, are lucky enough to have a counterpart to get through the mess. When Nora Caliguri and Rachelyn Porter–the designers behind Larsen Grey–met in high school, they did more than just hang out and drink Slurpees. They formed a friendship that would turn that teenage awkwardness into a successful career in fashion.
‘I got into design mainly because I was so petite in high school that I never fit into any dresses for school functions,’ says Nora. ‘So, my mom and I made my dresses.’
And even though her partner, Rachelyn, started her education in the sciences, she found herself in fashion. ‘You can express something to a wide audience of people,’ she says. ‘Plus the best part is channeling such random thoughts into something physical.’
Since the humbling days of high school Nora and Rachelyn–both Pratt Institute alumni–dove hem-first into the fashion industry, Nora showcasing her name on Season 1 of Project Runway and Rachelyn gaining experience at Chanel.
The ladies of Larsen Grey pride themselves on creating affordable, sleek and distinct clothes for women who want to make a statement. ‚ÄòWhat you wear gives off something about you to everyone–from your best friend to a stranger in the grocery store,‚Äô says Rachelyn. Larsen Grey craft their creations out of organic and sustainable materials, which we obviously heart.
Although both girls agree that the fashion industry can be totally nuts, they stay sane by following a few simple rules: ‚ÄòFind money first and never sell your name.‚Äô Yeah, we can get down with that. Some things just can’t be learned in high school.
Reid Stewart and Lifetime
Monday, June 1st, 2009Even though Reid Stewart, co-founder and creative director of Lifetime, had no formal training when he launched the brand in 2002, he chose to make his life all about art and design. As the name of the brand indicates, Lifetime offers clothing for a life well-lived‚Äîas defined by the wearer. Though, in a sense, Lifetime was also birthed from the extreme alienation of the ’90s. After all, it was the sentiment that skateboarding was starting to become boring and corporate that pushed Reid and co-founder Trevor Fleming to start Lifetime. Like most street wear brands, Lifetime began as a DIY t-shirt line; however, it has seen enormous growth in goods and distribution, and now offers full high-quality collections selling internationally in over 300 stores. And even though making women‚Äôs clothing might not seem like it would be on the priorities list, it was important to them to appeal to both sexes. For that reason, Lifetime has always had clothes for women too.
Reid gave hearty the rundown on designing the women’s side of the brand, his various inspirations and the exclusive first look at Lifetime’s women’s line for Fall ’09. However you choose to live your life, with Lifetime it’s all about nice things meant for living in.
What aspects are more difficult about designing women’s clothes in comparison to designing men’s clothes?
I think you have to be more critical of fit and the fabric you use, obviously. The styles change quicker from season to season.
Favorite women’s brands?
Not that these are specifically women’s collections, but I really like Rittenhouse, Anzevino and Florence, Acne, Mono (from Vancouver), Sunshine & Shadow, Manoush, Rachel Commey, and the list goes on and on.
Any females or women’s brands you’d like to collaborate with in the future?
We collaborated with our friend Heather Martin of Mono. I really love her work and would love to work with her again.
Do you consult with any specific women on the pieces?
I tend to consult a lot with my girlfriend and our friends all the time. We also work with our friend Theola Wong, who does pieces for us every season, along with our Production Manager, Angela Tan. My partner Trevor’s wife owns a really nice boutique here in Vancouver called One Of A Few. I’d imagine Trevor probably does the same.
What women have influenced you throughout your life?
I’d have to say my mom, my grandmother for living through the war and her stories about growing up in Ireland, the work of Nancy Spero, Gloria Steinem and Patti Smith. Too many, really.
Your pieces have the ability to look very different on different personalities. Is this something you intended to do and why?
We’ve devised this magical mountain powder that is methodically sprinkled onto all of our clothing and really makes people look amazing. No kidding. I think we want our line to be available to people. Maybe it was a subconscious decision in our design that many types of people could wear it.
What are some of the projects you’re working in with The Collective?
The Collective was formed so we could be involved with our friends on all fronts. We’re currently working on two band tee shirts for our Spring 2010 collection. It’s an initiative we’ve been doing for a few years now. It’s a way for us and The Collective to reach out into the community together. We’re working with Handsome Furs and My Morning Jacket. Proceeds from the sales of the tee shirts go to a non-profit of their choice. This time around Handsome Furs chose The Portland Hotel Society. They are an organization based here in Vancouver who help shelter homeless folks in the lower eastside of Vancouver. My Morning Jacket is working with the San Francisco-based 826 Valencia. A community based tutoring service that offers a variety of free programs and services throughout the school year and summer months, including drop-in tutoring, field trips, specialized workshops, in-school assistance, and extensive student publishing.

In Vancouver you have all terrains and the corresponding activities during different seasons at your fingertips—like skating, surfing, snowboarding, biking. Do you think you could have created a brand that is influenced from all these genres without having been based in Vancouver? And how did where you grew up influence the brand?
I’m not sure. I grew up in a bunch of different places. Some of them had an influence on my work and some didn’t. I think if you really wanted to make a line that was geared for a different area in the world you could probably do it. That said, this city has had an effect on me for sure. With one of the worst drug and homelessness problems in North America, it has opened my eyes to that side of life and the politics that does or doesn’t affect the problem. The surfing, snowboarding and biking has been really influential on me as well. In a sense, it was those activities in my early youth that maybe got me into thinking about more social issues. Probably the skateboarding.
Aspects of the lifestyle, including music and art, play a large role in Lifetime. You’re a fan of Joe Strummer and punk. How has this influenced Lifetime?
Punk music, along with Joe Strummer’s work, had a huge influence on me and for sure had a big influence on Lifetime. I think the biggest influence it had on us was the fact it made you feel like you could do anything. People who didn’t know how to play music were playing music. Learning on the fly and being involved in a band. No one really cared what people thought of them.
What other music or musicians influence the brand?
For me, personally, all the bands we work with, for sure. I’ve been listening to a lot of West African music these days, older jazz and lots of rock and roll. I’ve been listening the drumming of Tony Allen quite a bit and the Fela Kuti stuff he was involved with.
Who are some emerging musicians or bands you’re into?
Lightning Dust, Ladyhawk, Tomahawk Lodge, Teen Anger, Timber Timbre, Moonrats, Sic Alps.
With all the side projects, collaborations and The Collective, you;re always working with art. Is this something you ever thought you’d be doing?
Never. I thought I was going to be an astronaut when I was a kid. That said, I’m really happy to be where I’m at with Lifetime.
Who are some of your favorite emerging artists?
Niall McClelland, Jeremy R. Jansen, my son Fin, Shawn Kuruneru, Anna Emilia Laitinen, Michael Swaney, Simon Redekop, Lukas Geronimas, Julie Morstad and Jody Rogac.
Your look books in the past have almost been like magazines, including editorial like Q&As with musicians. You’ve just launched Selector, a bi-yearly arts and culture publication. Is journalism and publishing something you’ve always wanted to do?
Absolutely. Especially when you get to do it with a good friend. Selector is Michael Carter and I. It’s been a great experience meeting new people and getting to talk with folks we otherwise wouldn’t have. We just got back from Tokyo, curating our first show with a gallery over there. The show was based of our first issue. I would hope we could expand into other realms after we get this off the ground.
You sometimes invite fans to design for the brand through competitions, which brings in new creativity and keeps things fresh. How has the experience been for you?
It’s been great and another byproduct of listening to punk rock. We like to include people in what we do. We don’t want to be that brand that is way too cool it can’t work with its fans or people that are into the brand. The last one we had was amazing, and thanks to Oli Van Roost for setting it up. It was called Cut & Sew and was based in Montreal. The contestants designed for a sewing challenge with twenty teams. They were given thirty days to design and assemble a garment out of old Lifetime garments and make something new. We were so impressed with the results that we have included five pieces for this year’s Fall 2010 collection.
There always seems to be special or added features to each piece clothing. Why is this something that’s important to you?
It was something we just had always done or wanted to do. It separates us from other brands and gives the piece uniqueness.
If you weren’t doing what you’re doing, you would be…
Never had a plan b.
Where’s your heart at?
120 beats per minute.
Project No. 8
Monday, June 1st, 2009New York City’s Chinatown is a cluttered place in a cluttered city. But with its spare sensibility, Project No. 8, manages to stand out.
A shared interest in the distribution of design and ideas spurred married couple Elizabeth Beer and Brian Janusiak to embark on their eighth joint project—a shop that’s somewhat out of the way but definitely worth finding. They chose the obscure location on a very short street in New York City’s Chinatown based on the feeling they got from the block. But it also meant cheaper rent, which allowed for more experimentation. ‘Being out of the way is also its own editing mechanism. People need to find you, which is fun and a little rare when everything seems so instantaneously accessible,’ Brian says.
Project No. 8, which opened in 2007, feels more like a gallery or an art space than it does a store. The collection of exclusive under-the-radar clothes, accessories and design products fill a clean white space. Obscure past items include jewelry pieces made from vintage horn like Bison by Chris Bundy and conceptual men’s underwear from Peter Weismann, a young German designer. They also choose designers that are underrepresented in New York—not an easy feat in a city overloaded with fashion. Before adding new lines to the store, the couple will monitor designers for a couple of seasons. They’re shocked when they find out a lot of the designers they carry do not already sell in New York.
Some of their earlier projects include No. 1 and No. 2—their children: Nuala, 14, and Orla, 9. No. 4 was a line of imaginary souvenirs and mementos from countries Condoleezza Rice called the Outposts of Tyranny in 2005, including Iran, North Korea, Myanmar, Zimbabwe, Cuba, and Belarus. Their youngest daughter, Ona, marks project No. 14.
The pair is currently working on opening [Project] No. 8b, which will concentrate on men’s clothes, represent the German furniture line e15 and feature more books and objects. They also hope to host more events. No. 8b will be open by mid June—fingers crossed, according to the pair.
Name: Project No. 8
Employees: Lydia, Daniel, Janita, Gio, Nicholas
Location: 138 Division Street, New York, NY 10002
(Some) Brands: … Arielle De Pinto, Bless, Boudicca, Christian Wijnants, Kostas Murkudis, Maison Martin Margiela, Saskia Diez, Stephan Schneider, Tom Scott.
Nearby lunch spots: Brown (61 Hester), An Choi (85 Orchard)
Want More: http://www.projectno8.com
Jody Rogac
Monday, June 1st, 2009hearty’s featured artist of the month, England-born photographer Jody Rogac, has something to smile about. In a few short years, since her graduation from The Emily Carr Institute, Jody has quickly become one of the most sought-after up and coming fashion photographers in North America, working for publications like Rolling Stone, i-D, Corduroy, Pyramid Power, Nixon and many more. I’m not going to sit here and try to describe all the reasons why Jody’s photography is wildly successful. First off, I’d be punching out of my weight class, and secondly, words just aren’t necessary. The work speaks for itself. So, while her photos are gabbing all over the pages of this issue, I sat down with Jody to let her do some of the talking too.
How is NY treating you?
Great! I’ve always wanted to live in New York, as clich√© as that is, but there is just so much opportunity here.
Growing up in Canada, did you always have big dreams of flash and photos?
I was always into art: painting, drawing, taking photos here and there. I wouldn’t say that I always knew this would be my career from day one. I kind of stumbled upon photography in high school. I took a course and loved it, but didn’t revisit the idea until I went to college. So, one day I took my little portfolio to a National Portfolio day at Emily Carr University [in Vancouver, B.C] and they invited me into the photo program.
So, basically, you were a natural.
Aw, man, I’m blushing.
How did you manage to get your name out there?
That is the hardest part. I mean, no one will hire you if no one knows you are alive. To have photography as a career, you have to put on blinders and really focus. You need to forget about everyone else and just push it. Being persistent was the best thing I did. I made myself a website, which is the easiest way to self-promote, and then sent my link around. I also made printed promo mailers and sent them around.
What was your first big shoot?
My first big editorial job was for Monocle Magazine about a year and a half ago. They sent me up to Alaska to photograph Sarah Palin. No one really knew who she was at the time, but I guess they were on to something.
Whoa, Palin! What was she like?
She was a really nice lady. I went up to her home in Juno with a writer from New York. Palin was charismatic and lovely. I met her kids, strolled around the yard and the lake.
Did she barbecue any wild animals or give you pro-life lessons?
Ha ha. No, but she did have antlers on the wall.
Shocking. So, you have been doing tons of commercial fashion work. What kind of things inspire you with fashion shoots?
I’m more inspired by people rather than clothes. I like to treat fashion like portraits because they go hand in hand. I mean, you’re not shooting a model, you are shooting a person. I like to display character.
I love the stuff you did with Athena, the photo that is featured on our cover this month. She wears her personality all over herself. That shoot must have been fun.
Yeah. Athena was one of favorite subjects. She is so confident and beautiful. We’ve actually committed to turning our shoots into a long term project where we meet up four times a year to document her. No matter where we are in the world, we will make it happen. There is something so special about her that I love exploring with the camera. I feel like the camera gets so much out of Athena. She is amazing.
Everyone has idols. What photographers inspire you?
Diane Arbus is my favorite photographer. The way she frames and the way she connects to people is all so inspirational.
And on that note, any advice for those out there who maybe be admiring you?
If you love something and it’s all you want to do, just do it.
You sound like my mother. Can you make me cookies and tell me I’m special?
Of course!
Indie Rock Idol Emily Haines
Monday, June 1st, 2009The idols of indie rock feel the often arbitrary backlash of their success quicker and harder than in any genre. Few people have felt this more than Emily Haines, the leading lady of New Wave/indie rock marvel band Metric and member of expansive Montreal collective Broken Social Scene. Miss Haines is probably one of the most professional women in indie music–a powerhouse, strong, determined, educated, with talent to boot. But we hate what we love. So despite the fact that Emily has enjoyed continued success since the 2003 release of Metric’s Old World Underground, Where Are You Now?, she’s been dismissed as, ‘just some synth player‚’ or a Blondie knock-off. Not one to shy away from criticism (however reactionary) Emily got to work. And if she set people straight with her solo album, Knives Don’t Have Your Back, she’s knocking them over with the release of Metric’s newest release, Fantasies.
Emily has always played music her way. Exclusively. In high school, at Toronto’s Etobicoke School of the Arts, Emily’s teachers adjusted the curriculum for her when she refused to play anyone’s songs but her own. Not much has changed, it seems, as Emily still owns every song with her vivacious stage presence and teasing child’s voice.
Emily calls us from her cell phone in Spain, while she’s on vacation, her time away from doing things like interviews, press and promotion. All categories we kind of fit in to. Unwittingly proving she is serious about her career and cares about her fans, we chop it up about the f-word (feminism, silly), fashion as language, how to manage heartbreak and her open relationship with Metric. She’s also a good sport about our word association game, which she refers to as somewhat of an inkblot test. (Yes, we are trying to figure you out!) We at hearty propose a last minute change to the chorus of Metric’s new single Sick Muse: everybody, everybody just want to fall in love with Emily! Hearty sure has, and you will too.
You’re revered for your stage presence. Is this something that came naturally to you? Or something you had to work on?
It’s a process like anything else. My goal as a musician is to be honest; I feel like that’s the point. I was always very shy about getting up in front of people, and Metric had very many reserved and inhibited concerts in our early days. I just treated it like I would treat the development of anything in my writing, ‚ÄòWhat is it that I‚Äôm afraid of and how do I overcome it?‚Äô And that‚Äôs been the process and that‚Äôs where I‚Äôm at. I still look for those places of weakness and I try to expose them before anybody else does.
From a young age you always knew you were going to make music, but if you weren’t making music, what would you be doing?
Honestly, it’s like a hypothetical that I almost can’t answer. I’d probably have like five kids or something. There’s nothing else professionally that was ever going to be an option for me.
How would you describe this generation of women?
That’s an interesting question because I‚Äôve talked a lot about it with my mom and with my friends. I think we‚Äôre lucky and we know that we‚Äôre lucky. I‚Äôm sometimes concerned about the next generation coming up‚Äîthe feeling that feminism has gone so far that now it‚Äôs a symbol of freedom that you‚Äôre pole dancing for your boyfriend. Perhaps it‚Äôs gone a bit far and the irony has become reality. But I feel as though our generation has been able to enjoy genuine equality, like social equality with our friends–at least that‚Äôs in my world. There isn‚Äôt really a gender divide in our generation, but there are ideological and social divides between people. Now all we‚Äôve got to do is make it that it‚Äôs equal pay for women and we‚Äôre all good.
Yeah, exactly.
Equal pay for women and no one can get a job anyways.
Yeah, everyone is getting paid zero. As a role model for women, would you call yourself a feminist on any level?
I wouldn’t say that I’m not a feminist. It’s a bit of an academic term that I don’t really relate to and it’s probably not the fault of the women that this word has this association but it just seems to be associated with anger and I feel as though my views on women aren’t any different than the views of my male friends.
Who are females that you’ve looked up to throughout your life up to or respect?
It was very much how I was brought up to not differentiate all the time between things that were for women and things that were for men. It was kind of my sense that everything was open, so I have to say a lot of my role models were not necessarily women. Musically, I remember Sinead O‚ÄôConnor made a huge impact on me when she put out The Lion and the Cobra–it really impressed me and amazed me that someone could be part of main stream culture and be such an incredible writer and have such a bold appearance and represent such bigger things. Even though it feels like her life in the public eye completely destroyed that spirit for whatever reason. Musically, I definitely looked up to her when I felt like other girls were looking up to Madonna. I didn’t look up to Madonna. It‚Äôs not for me.
Do you read a lot? What’s something you’ve read recently that has had an impact on you?
I do. I have times when I really sink into certain books and times when I’m occupied with other things. Recently, I’ve been reading Naomi Klein’s Shock Doctrine. That’s a pretty heavy read. I wouldn’t recommend the Electric Shock section while you’re on an airplane—it’s kind of a claustrophobic literary experience but it’s actually an incredible book. She’s somebody I really look up to and would mention as a representative of our generation of women and feminists. I’ve never really heard her make a massive case for feminism but everything in her actions is proof of the capability of women to compete intellectually and be preeminent in their field. But it’s not as though she had to do that and she’s not allowed to wear lipstick because she’s writing a book, or be happily married because she’s a hard-hitting journalist. I definitely would say if she can go in our role model category, that would be great.
What is your advice for heartbreak?
Think about something else. Every minute that you think about something other than that, it’s a step in the right direction. Works for me.
Make Your Own Coat Rack
Sunday, May 24th, 2009HANG IT UP
Make your own coat rack

We tend to have way too many purses, scarves, accessories, sometimes making it hard to keep them all organized. Don’t get hung up on a messy room, get crafty!
What you’ll need:
Wood
Paint & Paint Brush
Knobs
Screws
Screw Driver
Pencil
If you want to collage add:
Paper
Scissors
Glue
You can find all the material you need at your local hardware store. Thrift stores and IKEA should also have a variety of drawer handles or doorknobs that you can use in this craft.

Paint and decorate the slab of wood. Once the paint dries you can add any collage material with glue.


Now that that wood is starting to look cute, mark with the pencil where you want the knobs to go. Make sure to make a mark on the edge of slab too so that you will know where to drill in the screw from the back.

Prop the wood between two objects so that the screw doesn’t go into your table or floors (Seriously, it will happen if you’re not careful).

Once all the screws are in screw on the knobs. and erase and pencil marks.

Once the knobs are in you’re ready to drill your new coat rack into the wall or add loopy screws to the top to sit on nails in your wall.

Et Voila, time to tidy up now!
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