Archive for the ‘Issue 3’ Category
Issue #3 Cover
Monday, June 1st, 2009Bijules
Monday, June 1st, 2009Jules Kim, the designer behind NYC-based jewelry line Bijules, isn’t afraid to make a little magic happen. And got her start when she realized she was tired of working for other people and decided to start her own jewelry line. ‘I was really excited’ Jules says. ‘Because once you make that decision, you’re like oh my god I can do this.’ Innovative design is a hallmark of Bijules. One of her most creative pieces, the Gelfling Ear Tip rests behind the wearer’s ear and creates a golden, elf-like ear extension. It comes with 3 pennyweights of gold fairy dust, to complete your charmed transformation to Lord of the Bling. Never being one for convention, Jules has designed chocolate bar rings (dusted with gold, of course), and apparently spent her early years hustling for Slurpees. Says Jules, ‘When I was looking back at my old journals I was like, whoa girl did you just try to get a Slurpee with food stamps? I was hustling as a kid—it’s totally in my nature.’
After quitting her day job, Jules had that crucial big break when, during a DJ gig, a woman from Lucky magazine complimented her jewelry. Fortuitously it was a piece Jules had designed herself. With the promise to feature her in the magazine, Jules crafted the Lucky lady a piece of jewelry. She remembers riding on the 6 train and knowing the issue featuring her piece would be hitting stands that day. She could see the magazine stand from the train. The doors opened and she ran out. ‘It was one of those super hero vibes,’ Jules recollects. ‘Doors open slow. I got it and grabbed it and I just remember like bawling.’
With dry eyes and renewed drive Jules went on to make a name for herself in tastemaker culture, now designing for scenesters and celebrities alike. Her clients run the gamut from indie acts like Bat for Lashes to mega celebs like Beyonce, for who she just designed a set of gold diamond nails, which Bey will be wearing in the new Sweet Dreams video premiering in June. ‘I see girls in the ghetto like, ‘Eh Eh,’ [to the tune of Rihanna’ song Umbrella] and I’m like that’s my ring!’ While she thinks the people she’s designed for are cool in their own vein, Santigold was one of her favorites. ‘Santi was dope because she comes from my school, like similar age group we all hang out together and we all sort of grew up together in a New York kind of way.’ Bijules jewelry has been featured in the pages of some of the world’s biggest publications like Vogue, Elle and Spin. Jules hopes her jewelry will empower women, ‘I think that what you put on your body is self expression and its not only what you look like on the outside its also your desires and the way you communicate who you are on the inside and I think its important because with women we have all these thing that are going against us.’ Now that she has her staples styles down–like the nail rings and bar rings–she tells us she’s working on a high end line that’s developing, followed by a more affordable line made primarily out of non conventional materials such as recycled plastics.
Jules understands the inherent intimacy of jewelry, ‘There is always an intimate side to a designer and her personality which makes the work even more understandable. ‘So we got intimate with Jules, looking into her fridge, makeup bag, closet, jewelry box and of course her heart. With our featured artist Jody Rogac capturing the moments, our suspicions were confirmed: Everything in this lady’s life defies convention.
I haven’t eaten in 7 days. It’s a very odd feeling–I was doing the master cleanse. You drink lemon juice, cayenne pepper and maple syrup. So this is the only thing that’s in there I don‚Äôt even have any lemons cause I couldn’t even look at them anymore.
My clothes are in this little guy. Like in New York half of the places I lived in never had closets, so I just learned to do without them. The way that I dress is who I am and the jewelry speaks with it. So my jewelry being as loud as it is, my outfits normally go that far as well.
JEWELRY BOX

I like to hang my shit on the walls, so with my jewelry I hang it wherever I can put it. I don’t like displaying shit the way people expect to be seen–I think it’s boring. This is where I keep my hair earring. This is a bearing for a skateboard since he works for a skating company I had it plated in black gold.
MAKEUP BAG

MAC sponsored me a couple seasons ago so I have a lot of MAC stuff. I’d rather make something go crazy. I also use a lot of makeup in my jewelry. My mom was really out there creatively and she raised us as a single mom, so when she’d go out she’d like get dressed up and put like baby cream on her eyes. It’s like bright white circles so this is just passed down from my mom.
HEART
A book created by her and her twin when they were 3 years old.
Back Porch Barbecue
Monday, June 1st, 2009
The Ladies of Larsen Grey
Monday, June 1st, 2009Girls tend to feel awkward and misunderstood in high school. Never mind the puberty, pre-drinking and sloppy make outs; getting dressed is a feat of its own. Some of us, however, are lucky enough to have a counterpart to get through the mess. When Nora Caliguri and Rachelyn Porter–the designers behind Larsen Grey–met in high school, they did more than just hang out and drink Slurpees. They formed a friendship that would turn that teenage awkwardness into a successful career in fashion.
‘I got into design mainly because I was so petite in high school that I never fit into any dresses for school functions,’ says Nora. ‘So, my mom and I made my dresses.’
And even though her partner, Rachelyn, started her education in the sciences, she found herself in fashion. ‘You can express something to a wide audience of people,’ she says. ‘Plus the best part is channeling such random thoughts into something physical.’
Since the humbling days of high school Nora and Rachelyn–both Pratt Institute alumni–dove hem-first into the fashion industry, Nora showcasing her name on Season 1 of Project Runway and Rachelyn gaining experience at Chanel.
The ladies of Larsen Grey pride themselves on creating affordable, sleek and distinct clothes for women who want to make a statement. ‚ÄòWhat you wear gives off something about you to everyone–from your best friend to a stranger in the grocery store,‚Äô says Rachelyn. Larsen Grey craft their creations out of organic and sustainable materials, which we obviously heart.
Although both girls agree that the fashion industry can be totally nuts, they stay sane by following a few simple rules: ‚ÄòFind money first and never sell your name.‚Äô Yeah, we can get down with that. Some things just can’t be learned in high school.
Reid Stewart and Lifetime
Monday, June 1st, 2009Even though Reid Stewart, co-founder and creative director of Lifetime, had no formal training when he launched the brand in 2002, he chose to make his life all about art and design. As the name of the brand indicates, Lifetime offers clothing for a life well-lived‚Äîas defined by the wearer. Though, in a sense, Lifetime was also birthed from the extreme alienation of the ’90s. After all, it was the sentiment that skateboarding was starting to become boring and corporate that pushed Reid and co-founder Trevor Fleming to start Lifetime. Like most street wear brands, Lifetime began as a DIY t-shirt line; however, it has seen enormous growth in goods and distribution, and now offers full high-quality collections selling internationally in over 300 stores. And even though making women‚Äôs clothing might not seem like it would be on the priorities list, it was important to them to appeal to both sexes. For that reason, Lifetime has always had clothes for women too.
Reid gave hearty the rundown on designing the women’s side of the brand, his various inspirations and the exclusive first look at Lifetime’s women’s line for Fall ’09. However you choose to live your life, with Lifetime it’s all about nice things meant for living in.
What aspects are more difficult about designing women’s clothes in comparison to designing men’s clothes?
I think you have to be more critical of fit and the fabric you use, obviously. The styles change quicker from season to season.
Favorite women’s brands?
Not that these are specifically women’s collections, but I really like Rittenhouse, Anzevino and Florence, Acne, Mono (from Vancouver), Sunshine & Shadow, Manoush, Rachel Commey, and the list goes on and on.
Any females or women’s brands you’d like to collaborate with in the future?
We collaborated with our friend Heather Martin of Mono. I really love her work and would love to work with her again.
Do you consult with any specific women on the pieces?
I tend to consult a lot with my girlfriend and our friends all the time. We also work with our friend Theola Wong, who does pieces for us every season, along with our Production Manager, Angela Tan. My partner Trevor’s wife owns a really nice boutique here in Vancouver called One Of A Few. I’d imagine Trevor probably does the same.
What women have influenced you throughout your life?
I’d have to say my mom, my grandmother for living through the war and her stories about growing up in Ireland, the work of Nancy Spero, Gloria Steinem and Patti Smith. Too many, really.
Your pieces have the ability to look very different on different personalities. Is this something you intended to do and why?
We’ve devised this magical mountain powder that is methodically sprinkled onto all of our clothing and really makes people look amazing. No kidding. I think we want our line to be available to people. Maybe it was a subconscious decision in our design that many types of people could wear it.
What are some of the projects you’re working in with The Collective?
The Collective was formed so we could be involved with our friends on all fronts. We’re currently working on two band tee shirts for our Spring 2010 collection. It’s an initiative we’ve been doing for a few years now. It’s a way for us and The Collective to reach out into the community together. We’re working with Handsome Furs and My Morning Jacket. Proceeds from the sales of the tee shirts go to a non-profit of their choice. This time around Handsome Furs chose The Portland Hotel Society. They are an organization based here in Vancouver who help shelter homeless folks in the lower eastside of Vancouver. My Morning Jacket is working with the San Francisco-based 826 Valencia. A community based tutoring service that offers a variety of free programs and services throughout the school year and summer months, including drop-in tutoring, field trips, specialized workshops, in-school assistance, and extensive student publishing.

In Vancouver you have all terrains and the corresponding activities during different seasons at your fingertips—like skating, surfing, snowboarding, biking. Do you think you could have created a brand that is influenced from all these genres without having been based in Vancouver? And how did where you grew up influence the brand?
I’m not sure. I grew up in a bunch of different places. Some of them had an influence on my work and some didn’t. I think if you really wanted to make a line that was geared for a different area in the world you could probably do it. That said, this city has had an effect on me for sure. With one of the worst drug and homelessness problems in North America, it has opened my eyes to that side of life and the politics that does or doesn’t affect the problem. The surfing, snowboarding and biking has been really influential on me as well. In a sense, it was those activities in my early youth that maybe got me into thinking about more social issues. Probably the skateboarding.
Aspects of the lifestyle, including music and art, play a large role in Lifetime. You’re a fan of Joe Strummer and punk. How has this influenced Lifetime?
Punk music, along with Joe Strummer’s work, had a huge influence on me and for sure had a big influence on Lifetime. I think the biggest influence it had on us was the fact it made you feel like you could do anything. People who didn’t know how to play music were playing music. Learning on the fly and being involved in a band. No one really cared what people thought of them.
What other music or musicians influence the brand?
For me, personally, all the bands we work with, for sure. I’ve been listening to a lot of West African music these days, older jazz and lots of rock and roll. I’ve been listening the drumming of Tony Allen quite a bit and the Fela Kuti stuff he was involved with.
Who are some emerging musicians or bands you’re into?
Lightning Dust, Ladyhawk, Tomahawk Lodge, Teen Anger, Timber Timbre, Moonrats, Sic Alps.
With all the side projects, collaborations and The Collective, you;re always working with art. Is this something you ever thought you’d be doing?
Never. I thought I was going to be an astronaut when I was a kid. That said, I’m really happy to be where I’m at with Lifetime.
Who are some of your favorite emerging artists?
Niall McClelland, Jeremy R. Jansen, my son Fin, Shawn Kuruneru, Anna Emilia Laitinen, Michael Swaney, Simon Redekop, Lukas Geronimas, Julie Morstad and Jody Rogac.
Your look books in the past have almost been like magazines, including editorial like Q&As with musicians. You’ve just launched Selector, a bi-yearly arts and culture publication. Is journalism and publishing something you’ve always wanted to do?
Absolutely. Especially when you get to do it with a good friend. Selector is Michael Carter and I. It’s been a great experience meeting new people and getting to talk with folks we otherwise wouldn’t have. We just got back from Tokyo, curating our first show with a gallery over there. The show was based of our first issue. I would hope we could expand into other realms after we get this off the ground.
You sometimes invite fans to design for the brand through competitions, which brings in new creativity and keeps things fresh. How has the experience been for you?
It’s been great and another byproduct of listening to punk rock. We like to include people in what we do. We don’t want to be that brand that is way too cool it can’t work with its fans or people that are into the brand. The last one we had was amazing, and thanks to Oli Van Roost for setting it up. It was called Cut & Sew and was based in Montreal. The contestants designed for a sewing challenge with twenty teams. They were given thirty days to design and assemble a garment out of old Lifetime garments and make something new. We were so impressed with the results that we have included five pieces for this year’s Fall 2010 collection.
There always seems to be special or added features to each piece clothing. Why is this something that’s important to you?
It was something we just had always done or wanted to do. It separates us from other brands and gives the piece uniqueness.
If you weren’t doing what you’re doing, you would be…
Never had a plan b.
Where’s your heart at?
120 beats per minute.
Project No. 8
Monday, June 1st, 2009New York City’s Chinatown is a cluttered place in a cluttered city. But with its spare sensibility, Project No. 8, manages to stand out.
A shared interest in the distribution of design and ideas spurred married couple Elizabeth Beer and Brian Janusiak to embark on their eighth joint project—a shop that’s somewhat out of the way but definitely worth finding. They chose the obscure location on a very short street in New York City’s Chinatown based on the feeling they got from the block. But it also meant cheaper rent, which allowed for more experimentation. ‘Being out of the way is also its own editing mechanism. People need to find you, which is fun and a little rare when everything seems so instantaneously accessible,’ Brian says.
Project No. 8, which opened in 2007, feels more like a gallery or an art space than it does a store. The collection of exclusive under-the-radar clothes, accessories and design products fill a clean white space. Obscure past items include jewelry pieces made from vintage horn like Bison by Chris Bundy and conceptual men’s underwear from Peter Weismann, a young German designer. They also choose designers that are underrepresented in New York—not an easy feat in a city overloaded with fashion. Before adding new lines to the store, the couple will monitor designers for a couple of seasons. They’re shocked when they find out a lot of the designers they carry do not already sell in New York.
Some of their earlier projects include No. 1 and No. 2—their children: Nuala, 14, and Orla, 9. No. 4 was a line of imaginary souvenirs and mementos from countries Condoleezza Rice called the Outposts of Tyranny in 2005, including Iran, North Korea, Myanmar, Zimbabwe, Cuba, and Belarus. Their youngest daughter, Ona, marks project No. 14.
The pair is currently working on opening [Project] No. 8b, which will concentrate on men’s clothes, represent the German furniture line e15 and feature more books and objects. They also hope to host more events. No. 8b will be open by mid June—fingers crossed, according to the pair.
Name: Project No. 8
Employees: Lydia, Daniel, Janita, Gio, Nicholas
Location: 138 Division Street, New York, NY 10002
(Some) Brands: … Arielle De Pinto, Bless, Boudicca, Christian Wijnants, Kostas Murkudis, Maison Martin Margiela, Saskia Diez, Stephan Schneider, Tom Scott.
Nearby lunch spots: Brown (61 Hester), An Choi (85 Orchard)
Want More: http://www.projectno8.com
03.09.10




























