Archive for the ‘Issue 4’ Category

Mary Meyer

Wednesday, September 9th, 2009

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Photos by Rory Gunderson
Mary Meyer may originally hail from California, but she’s what we like to call a New York triple threat. In Hollywood a triple threat can sing, dance and act. But Hollywood is the land of Heidi Fleiss, lunchtime-Botox and DUIs–a far cry from Mary’s new home of Brooklyn. In New York, the thrice-threatening are designers, activists and patrons of the arts, like Come Up Mary Meyer.
Mary graduated from the California College of Arts in Oakland with a degree in painting, although she also polished skills such as printmaking, weaving, dying and even welding. Used to working with textiles in her artistic training, Mary found making her own clothes came naturally. Things started small; she sold her pieces to friends, then branching out to a few stores in Oakland. After planting herself in Brooklyn and working diligently on her craft, Mary Meyer Clothing is now worldwide and can be found everywhere from New York taste-maker Oak to Clever Alice in Philadelphia, as well as a slew of Barneys. Mary never let go of her formal artistic training, she just found a new way to channel it. “[Designing clothing] turned into something super organic and logical. I mean, art is a struggle. When you’re twenty-two, it’s a lot harder to find people in your peer group who will buy your art, but they will buy your clothes.”
Mary laughs as she tells me that it took her a while to actually consider herself a true designer. “I didn’t feel as though I was giving my whole self with clothes because in my head, I was still ‘an artist’. But then, there was also something really appealing with the directness of clothing. Everyone collects clothes, not everyone collects art. I liked the universality of it.”
Mary is not only an artist at heart, but an artist with a very big heart, hence threat #2: Activist. Aside from Mary Meyer Clothing, she is the co-founder of nonprofit, after-school project Step Right Up, which gives Lower East Side 5th graders extensive lessons in design, theatre, art and writing. The project was hatched a few years ago through collaboration between Mary and her close friend Bonnie Pipkin, the nonprofit’s co-founder. Step Right Up is now in its third year running, for several weeks, children produce a complete theatre production: They write their own scripts, create costumes and sets, then rehearse and perform the final product. In the beginning, the program was funded by parties that Mary threw in her live-in studio home. Local bands would play in the dinning room, while the living room became a gallery space.
According to Mary, the goal of these parties is to expose local bands and artists (threat #3: patron of the arts). During our chat she raves about Brooklyn youngsters, Your Nature and The Wild Yaks. She insists that fund-raising “is not sterile,” and anyone who has wandered into a party at the Mary Meyer Art House can certainly verify.
“I love online press,” Mary cooes. “I’m glad we’re doing this. I mean, I’m talking about some band on a website and all the reader has to do is click. It’s an amazing promotional tool.” Triple-threat guys. A veritable New York breed of triple threat. Suck it, Fleiss. Mary Meyer may originally hail from California, but she’s what we like to call a New York triple threat. In Hollywood a triple threat can sing, dance and act. But Hollywood is the land of Heidi Fleiss, lunchtime-Botox and DUIs–a far cry from Mary’s new home of Brooklyn. In New York, the thrice-threatening are designers, activists and patrons of the arts, like Come Up Mary Meyer.

Mary Meyer may originally hail from California, but she’s what we like to call a New York triple threat. In Hollywood a triple threat can sing, dance and act. But Hollywood is the land of Heidi Fleiss, lunchtime-Botox and DUIs–a far cry from Mary’s new home of Brooklyn. In New York, the thrice-threatening are designers, activists and patrons of the arts, like Come Up Mary Meyer.

Mary graduated from the California College of Arts in Oakland with a degree in painting, although she also polished skills such as printmaking, weaving, dying and even welding. Used to working with textiles in her artistic training, Mary found making her own clothes came naturally. Things started small; she sold her pieces to friends, then branching out to a few stores in Oakland. After planting herself in Brooklyn and working diligently on her craft, Mary Meyer Clothing is now worldwide and can be found everywhere from New York taste-maker Oak to Clever Alice in Philadelphia, as well as a slew of Barneys. Mary never let go of her formal artistic training, she just found a new way to channel it. “[Designing clothing] turned into something super organic and logical. I mean, art is a struggle. When you’re twenty-two, it’s a lot harder to find people in your peer group who will buy your art, but they will buy your clothes.”

Mary laughs as she reveals that it took her a while to actually consider herself a true designer. “I didn’t feel as though I was giving my whole self with clothes because in my head, I was still ‘an artist’. But then, there was also something really appealing with the directness of clothing. Everyone collects clothes, not everyone collects art. I liked the universality of it.”

Mary is not only an artist at heart, but an artist with a very big heart, hence threat #2: Activist. Aside from Mary Meyer Clothing, she is the co-founder of nonprofit, after-school project Step Right Up, which gives Lower East Side 5th graders extensive lessons in design, theatre, art and writing. The project was hatched a few years ago through collaboration between Mary and her close friend Bonnie Pipkin, the nonprofit’s co-founder. Step Right Up is now in its third year running, for several weeks, children produce a complete theatre production: They write their own scripts, create costumes and sets, then rehearse and perform the final product. In the beginning, the program was funded by parties that Mary threw in her live-in studio home. Local bands would play in the dinning room, while the living room became a gallery space.

According to Mary, the goal of these parties is to expose local bands and artists (threat #3: patron of the arts). During our chat she raves about Brooklyn youngsters, Your Nature and Wild Yaks. She insists that fund-raising “is not sterile,” and anyone who has wandered into a party at the Mary Meyer Art House can certainly verify.

“I love online press,” Mary cooes. “I’m glad we’re doing this. I mean, I’m talking about some band on a website and all the reader has to do is click. It’s an amazing promotional tool.” There you have it, triple-threat. A veritable New York breed of triple threat. Suck it Hollywood.

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Mary is throwing a Auction/Rock Show Fundraiser to expand to another school for Step Right Up at The Mary Meyer Art House on October 3rd, 2009. Bands featured are Necking, The Nasties, Brass Cups (members of AIDS Wolf & Islands) and Rocko Lives It (members of Wild Yaks). Also, featuring artists such as Round Designs, Christian Beaujean, Jeremy Davies and many more. Click here for more details on this event.

Silhouette Snips

Sunday, July 12th, 2009

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Eye and hand coordination is not necessary! Follow these instructions below to create your very own silhouette portraits.

Materials for this project:

2 Pieces Paper (different colors)
Photos
Scissors
Pencil
Picture 
Frame

Step One A reason to lurk. Pick through photos of your friends’ or family members to find shapes you like. If you don’t have a box of photos I guarentee you will find ample material online (cough, facebook, cough). If you have a camera and printer you can also ask to photograph your friend’s side profile, which looks very posh and victorian as a completed silhouette. Another option, as long as you don’t mind snipping them up, is to check that pile of magazines in your closet.

Step Two Print your photos if necessary. once you have your material, cut out along the edge of the person(s) or object(s).

Step Three Place your cut out onto the piece of colored paper you have chosen for the silhouette and begin tracing. Be sure to draw lightly and press onto the cut out with your opposite hand so that your lines transfer accurately. When you’re finished and happy with your traced drawing begin cutting on the lines.

Step Four Once your silhouette is ready to be framed, you can begin to aline your artwork. Place the frame face down, line up your silhouette cut out, and lastly lay down your background paper. Close up the frame and your ready to decorate.

Step by step photos!

Gather your materials

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Clip along your friend’s profiles.

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Trace onto the paper you want to use as the silhouette and cut them out.

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Use the frame’s glass or the matting to measure the paper you will use as the background.

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Arrange the pieces in the frame.

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Decorate!

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Issue #4 Cover

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

Three Monkeys: 5 Years of Monkey Business

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

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Photos: Mike Casali

Rare are those who actively seek monkey business. Yet in Montreal, Canada‚Äôs downtown fashion district, or the maze of shops, seedy strip clubs, mobs of tourists and fearless shopping mamas, we find Three Monkeys–a place for fashion and play.

In early 2004, Mike Casali, Arianna Rabinovitch and Paul Desbaillets—all in their twenty-somethings—stopped mumbling about opening a boutique together, took hold of the retail vine, and swung full force ahead. For such an impetuous move, the results are strikingly well-considered: a minimal white space, decorated by a versatile choice of clothing lines. The brightly lit red Three Monkeys logo, serves as a stamp for the space, as well as a warning: Monkeys at play. Setting themselves apart from big box stores, their approach is to seek out product that is original and affordable—offering as much opportunity to local talent as possible, while remaining accessible to all breeds.

Monkeys are social creatures, and these three are no exception. Not only are they famous for wild parties, they also play well with others, collaborating with brands like Marc Jacobs, Insight and WESC. They are also known for their line of exclusive t-shirts and maybe more importantly their leather couches, which cushion the bottoms of boyfriends and parents waiting for their counterparts to try on the goods they will ultimately finance. (Thanks, mom!)

Opening their doors in 2004 with the intention to promote local artists, five years later the monkeys still devote over one third of their space to local and, recently, national designers. Some of the independent designers who have graced their monkey bars include this month‚Äôs Come Up Travis Tadeo, Valerie Dumaine and Lydia Lukidis. After five years of shenanigans, it must be said: We’re ape for Three Monkeys!

These three monkeys have been shaking down trees in their pre-party outfits for the last few months gearing up for Three Monkey’s 5 years in the Montreal fashion jungle, which will surely be bananas. While the monkeys say 5 years around still feels more like 3 minutes, we suspect that the July 18, 5 year celebration will last a tad longer given the telephone game left the following message: “An army of cloned yet finely dressed flying super monkeys will rain down booze, pcp and free t-shirts on the city for one night of passion.” After decoding the message, we think it meant an overwhelming amount of banana eating contests lay in the plans, which consequently may leave some feeling as though they were on pcp. Don’t forget to leave your monkey business at home, there will be plenty there for all.

Name: Three Monkeys

Employees: Yousaf Khurshid, Stephanie Macmillan, Stephanie Creaghan, Masha Sitnikova. The wonder staff.

Location: 1455 Peel St. | Les Cours Mont Royal, Montreal QC

(Some) Brands: Cheap Monday, Lifetime Collective, WESC, Brixton, Insight, Super, Poiner, RVCA, Vans, Travis Taddeo, Valerie Dumaine, Naked & Famous Denim, PF Flyer, Eve Gravel, Sixpack, Anastasia Lomonova, Covet, Rogues Gallery, and more!

Nearby lunch spots: Food Courts galore!

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Producer Black Milk

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

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We heart Black Milk, but above are some pictures he took of things he hearts.

Black Milk served nice and cold.

by: Hana May
images: Gillian Hurd

Black Milk’s job is to combine rap vocals and sound. So we had him create a hip hop sports team for us. Run on over to the gymnasium bulletin board and see who made the starting five, find out who the water boy is and who will be benched!

Producer Black Milk has managed to make his way from the Detroit underground to tour around the world and produce for big names like Busta Rhymes and Slum Village. Yet, when people list their favorite producers, Black Milk isn’t on that list as much as he’d like to be. A self-described producer first, MC second, Black Milk started making music when he was in high school in Detroit. Now 25, it seems like he’s been in the game longer than he has and has gained some serious nods from both hip hop fans and industry authorities. He gleams when he talks about how he’s heard his idol, legend Jay Dilla, rapping over his beats. A young, laid-back dude with an old-school vibe, his production style incorporates electro sounds with a hard bass, suitably repping the Slum Village and Phat Cat circle. In 2007, he released Popular Demand, which earned him the label of ‘next big thing’ and his most recent album, Tronic, received similarly good reviews. But he’s still pushing forward.

Black Milk is currently working on Random Axe, a new hip hop super group, which includes lyrical hard hitters Guilty Simpson and Sean Price. The self-titled album is slated for release for the last quarter of this year.

We chatted with Black Milk about Random Axe, how someone who loves making sound needs some peace and quiet, wanting to work with Eminem, and why some cats aren’t bringing it anymore.

Cookies in hand, new Black Milk is on the way, served nice and cold.

Random Axe came about when you were getting a verse from Sean Price for Guilty Simpson’s album. But you guys have been talking about this project since 2007. You’ve said the album will come out early next year. At this point, do you guys have a date?

We still don’t have an official date. I’m putting the last little tweaks on the mixes and getting the last couple verses from P and Guilt. It’s about 90 per cent done. Hopefully, when I get back, I can have it all finished and ready to turn in by July. By next month, I should be turning it in to Duck Down and hopefully we get it out by the last quarter of this year.

Will the album be titled Random Axe?

Yeah, that’s the name of the group and the name of the album.

You guys have quite strong personalities. There must be some funny stories from the studio.

It’s crazy ‘cause of Sean P. I’m a laid-back dude, Guilty’s kinda laid back, too, but Sean P is such a damn fool, man.

I’ve interviewed him, so I know.

Right. He got all kind of stories about hip hop shit and prison—just nothing but laughs. It’s fun, man. It’s nothing but fun. There’s no tension—it don’t even feel like we’re having competition against each other. On the rhyme tip, everybody just does their thing and gets in their own zone. We making dope music.

Besides the Random Axe project, what else do you have going on?

I’m going to get back on my solo stuff. I don’t have an official title yet, but I’m going to drop a free download with about 13-16 songs with some original music and some of me rhyming over other cats’ beats. I never really did the mixtape thing, I wasn’t feeling that. I’m going to do it on some MC shit so people can hear the bars—my beats overshadow my rhymes a lot of the time. That, plus I’m working on an official project with this R&B singer out of Detroit named Melanie Rutherford.

I actually read that.

Yeah, she was on Tronic, so I’m going to finish that up just to come with a different angle musically. I really haven’t touched that side of the music category—like the R&B. It’s going to be like some dirty boom bap hard beats with some melodic singing over it. That should come out dope.

After that, I’m going to try and focus on my official third album on Phat Beats, so that should probably be dropping next year. Just trying to keep busy and keep dropping music.

What are your studio rituals like? Do you have anything you always need with you?

The main thing I need is I can’t have any distractions. When I go to the studio, I would prefer it to be just me and the engineer. I don’t really like five or six cats in the studio—people talking like, ‘Eh eh eh.’ So that’s the only thing I really need is peace and quiet. I don’t really have rituals; I just do what I do.

You produce and MC. Do you prefer one over the other?

I definitely love the beats and the production over the rhymes. I love creating sound, love hard-hitting drums just smacking through the speakers. Everything about production—I love to go digging for records and finding that new sample that nobody touched yet and crazy shit that make me want to go chop it up in the MPC. Writing 16s—that’s cool. I could do that in 5 or 10 minutes, but the music part—the back drop—is like the most important part of the song, you know what I’m saying?

Personally, who’s been the biggest person you’ve produced for?

Personally, I would have to say Slum Village. ‘Cause everybody know that Dilla was my biggest influence in this music shit here and I was like a fan of their music, the beats, everything. So when I finally got the chance to meet him and work with him, it was like me working damn near with Tribe Called Quest because that’s how much their music affected me. I loved their shit—Fan-Tas-Tic Vol. 1, Fan-Tas-Tic Vol. 2, all that shit. The highlight was working with them and working with J Dilla, getting to hear him spit over a couple of my beats. It was crazy to hear him rapping over that shit today.

Who’s someone you would you like to work with that you haven’t had the chance to yet?

I probably want to get in the studio with Eminem—just to see. He’s back on his MC shit and I’d love to hear Eminem go in on one of my tracks. And probably MF Doom. [Chuckles.]

Robin Cameron

Thursday, July 9th, 2009
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'Spitting into the Wind' Photo Credit: Bobby Kelly.

by: Gillian Damborg

One of Robin Cameron’s large-scale pieces was a giant fabric sculpture that hung from the ceiling at dance party called ‘Your Face is Melting Off’ while kids guzzled cheap beer and danced around aimlessly. By the end of the night the piece was torn to pieces and left shredded on the dirty dance floor. Far from upset, Robin was satisfied to see her piece consumed by such a successful event.

We like a lady with the confidence to try new things, and we see her expanding her tools and styles. Tiny books, fabric sculptures, watercolor illustrations and detailed hand-drawn typography, creative writing, photography—she tries her hand at everything.

Born in 1981 in the Interior of British Columbia, Canada, Robin has shown her work all over the world including Toronto, Seattle, Chicago, Philadelphia, New York, LA and Tokyo. After graduating from the Emily Carr Institute of Art and Design (now an official University), Robin moved to New York where she currently resides.

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Abstract Drawing from 'Ten Postcards in the Key of Life'

Do you miss anything about Vancouver?

Third Beach.

Other than the fact that NY is NY, how has living there expanded your opportunities?

People take you more seriously for some reason. Maybe they know how hard it is to live here–all the people, it’s hot in the summer, cold in the winter, dirty, loud, expensive. But the thing about it is that when you ask this city for something it somehow gives it to you.

What neighborhood are you living in?

Chinatown. 5th floor walk-up.

What’s the best part about New York?

You can be totally anonymous, and alone but somehow be surrounded by people. I like the way I get to move through the city too, walking or biking it feels very connected, way more than in LA. Here you run into people on the street. Also the bookstores and cultural opportunities.

How do you feel about the young artist scene in New York right now?

I like my friends who make art and happen to live here.

Who are some of your favorite up and coming artists?

Lukas Geronimas, Niall McClelland, Shay Semple, Paul Cowan, Asher Penn, Kayla Guthrie, Megan Plunkett, Martine Syms, Arielle DePinto, Leslie Kulesh, Jennifer Sullivan.

How has formal training shaped your style?

I think art school was helpful for giving me a vernacular to really be able to talk about the work and think critically about what I was making. I tend to look at a lot of different sources, so mostly that helped train my eye. But really is just about actually doing the work. Also I would rather think in terms of ideas as opposed to just simply a visual style.

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'Distractions 1-100'

You use a lot of different mediums and outlets for your art, and it seems you are expanding this even more now. Would you consider yourself a multimedia artist? If not, how do you classify yourself?

I think lately I have been thinking about my work fitting into New Genres. Which as a medium it is pretty vague. The idea can take any form, whatever is right for that particular idea, that’s what I really want to play with. I think I work best in a more project based art practice. When people ask me what I do, I usually say I make drawings or books. It’s sort of hard to explain, it’s more of a thing you just have to see. I would like to start to explore video and challenging the idea of what sculpture could be.

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'One Year and Two Months of Feeling Bad About Myself' Photo credit: Bobby Kelly

I remember a piece you did for this party in Vancouver called “Your Face is Melting Off,” it was this dripping group of fabric teardrops hanging from the ceiling in the middle of the dance floor. Really beautiful. Do you enjoy working in large formats or would you say you prefer working in smaller formats, like your books for instance?

That was so long ago! My friend Andrew just threw all these parties, he would have me do something for the space to make it more interesting. So there was no real boundaries, I could do whatever I wanted. I was making these fabric sculptures because I had a studio space on hastings, there was more space to make that kind of larger work. I did another fabric sculpture for this show in Philadelphia a couple of years ago. The thing about those larger works is that I don’t have a lot of room to put them after the show is done. At that party the work was completely ripped apart on the dance floor which was kind of an amazing event in itself. If I can I try to reuse the materials and make something else. Like this stack of Vogue Magazines I turned into a new work. Maybe I will make some more larger sculptures later when I have more space. Going smaller I just finished a miniaturization of my old books that sit on a tiny glass shelf. That work was really fun to figure out how to produce that tiny, like how do you bind books that small and also thinking about making a tiny archive.

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'Your Face is Melting Off' party flyer

What music are you listening to right now?

It fluctuates between the some of most cheesy hip hop, a little bit of old soul and a lot of classic rock.

What books are you reading right now?

I’ve been researching a new project and so I’ve been sort of collecting a whole bunch of self-help books from the seventies. It’s funny to read them because the way they write is all this book will really change your life, but how do they know that? But before that I got Dave Hickey’s Invisible Dragon since it was out of print for a long time. Before that I got this really interesting biography on Duchamp out of the NYPL.


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'Étagère-En-Valise' A Collection of miniature zines, Photo credit: Bobby Kelly

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'All the Emails I've Sent Myself Since I Moved To New York'

Top five female influences in your life?

Louise Bourgeois, Sophie Calle, Annette Messager. And my two favorite Aunts Janice was a puppeteer and Aunt Barbara who used to work as an animator.

Are you an introvert or extrovert?

Definitely introverted, sometimes people think I’m standoffish but I’m really just shy. I used to have my brother order for me in restaurants when I was younger.

What can we expect to see from you next?

More new projects, but I can’t reveal too much just yet.


For more information on Robin Cameron, check out her website at www.rocamm.com
You can also purchase her work at the Mastermind shop www.mmastermind.com/

Marie Antoinette: Let Them Eat Cake

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

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Matt George

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

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Self-portrait.

Don’t let those baby blues fool you. Matt George is serious about his business. Having conquered the great north (he’s opened up his Goodfoot stores in all major Canadian cities), Matt is now picking up property across the American Monopoly board—spending half of his time in sunny L.A. and recently teaming up with one of the biggest names in music and fashion right now. ‘I love to be challenged,’ George says. ‘Working with brands like Stussy, adidas, or someone I consider one of the hardest working people I know’ (read: Kanye). Keeping himself busy, Matt has his hand in a bunch of different pots. He owns United Front, which is the parent company to several brands, some of the more visible ones being Goodfoot, Ransom, Nomad and Nvsble Tailors. Despite all the knowledge he’s acquired through his vast experience, Matt is always trying to learn new things. ‘The minute you stop learning, sleeping 8 hours a night and sweating everyday, you become the norm. I’m not interested in being a part of that movement.’

And even though all of these conquests might give Matt reason to be full of himself, he’s continually challenging his own accomplishments. When we ask him why he hasn’t really ventured into the women’s side of the industry, he says, ‘I would love to! But I haven’t quite mastered the men’s side just yet.’ But ladies, he is looking—for a potential new business partner. That is, if the right situation arose. ‘I think there is a lot of room for this, but I haven’t met the right person to work with.’ However, he does have a couple of smaller projects in the works for women, including the Ransom footwear line with adidas, which he divulges will have styles for women in the spring of 2010 (we’re looking forward to them now).

Between London, LA, flights, time changes, meetings, emails and calls we finally caught up with Matt. We talked to him about his opinions on the women’s fashion industry, how easy it can be to be successful, Kanye’s new line Pastelle—which he lets us know will have a women’s division—designing a car people actually want and reading about Chairman Mao.

With a fashion sense that people want to emulate, we asked Matt if style is something you have to be born with or something you can acquire. According to Matt, ‘Everyone has a style, some more aesthetically pleasing than others.’ We’re hoping a little more of these aesthetically pleasing looks are available for us ladies sooner than later.

Where do you see women’s wear going in the next five years?

Women’s wear is going in the direction of simplicity—effortless chic. Think Alexander Wang, Helmut Lang, Rick Owens, Balmain, Ann Demeulemeester. These fashion houses are all designing pieces that are easy to wear and trans-seasonal, each piece becoming a staple for everyday.

What women’s brands do you think are killing it right now?

This season, Givenchy, Balmain, Gareth Pugh, and Haider Ackermann.

What sort of designs or things would you like to see for the women’s industry? What do you think the women’s industry is missing?

I’m always more drawn to clothing that screams sex and strength. With men, why are the real timeless style icons like James Dean or Steve McQueen always top of the list? They all sell sex and strength. Women want to fuck these men; men want to be them. I think the same is true on the women’s side. When women are comfortable in their own skin, it is the sexiest trait. Women’s wear these days seems to be lacking this sex appeal. The homely look is for home. The boyfriend pants, shirts, bags is because you don’t have clean, warm, comfortable clothes at your or your man’s house.

There are some great women’s streetwear brands, but there aren’t really any brands that parallel the look or feel of a brand like Supreme or even Ransom. Why do you think this is?

I’m not sold on that women should wear or look towards the brands you mentioned as a go-to in their closet. I wouldn’t want to see any woman wearing clothing made by Supreme or Ransom.

Who are some individuals in the industry you think kill it for the ladies?

Carine Roitfeld, Emmanuelle Alt and Kate Lanphear are amazing editors of French Vogue and Elle Magazine. Their personal styles are effortless. On the web, I look at a number of things. Simple basic easy and on top of trends is http://neroandnoir.blogspot.com/

Why haven’t you really ventured into the women’s side of things yet?

I would love to! I haven’t quite mastered the men’s side just yet. I would also need a partner who has the vision and drive to make women’s project work. I think there is a lot of room for this but I haven’t met the right person to work with this on.

Any plans in designing women’s stuff for any of your lines?

Couple on the go. Nvsble Tailors is unisex and the Ransom footwear collection, which is produced by adidas, should have women’s side of the business before Fall 2010. I’d like to introduce some styles to friends and family first, to see what the reaction is going to be.

What are your favorite female brands?

Rick Owens, Josh Goot, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga T’s‚Ķ

What do you think makes a brand successful these days?

A clear vision and direction. If you work hard on a plan and stick to it, it’s tough to go wrong. You also have to work harder and smarter than everyone around you. If you can complete one item off your list from the day before and have one win a day, you are miles away from the pack. No one will be able to keep up. You would be surprised how many of your peers can’t do this.

What are some of the more important lessons you’ve learned through all your experience in the streetwear industry?

To be honest, I learn from the people around me. If I were a car sales man I would learn from the people around me. The particular industry I’m around hasn’t taught me anything. It’s the people I associate with. My team, my friends, ex-friends, ex-employees, family, etc.

What is your role working with Kanye? How did this particular opportunity come about?

I am currently setting up, staffing and managing design offices in LA and NYC for all things KW. I was introduced and brought on through my close friend Willo, who I have worked on many great projects with and who has being working with Kanye for years.

Will there be aspects of Kanye’s line for women?

I have a feeling the women’s collection will be as strong as, if not stronger than, the men’s.

When will it drop?

KW is going to perfect the pieces he is designing. It’s a constant process. When he is comfortable, he will pull the trigger and it will take the fashion world by storm.

A lot of projects you work on, you’ve spearheaded, allowing yourself in a sense to be your own boss. How has it been adjusting to working with someone else and someone as professionally demanding and particular as Kanye?

I adapt easy. Ha.

Travis Taddeo

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

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photos by: Kenza

Travis Taddeo was still a budding designer hanging out below the radar in Montreal when befriended a lucky member of the hearty staff, who was earning a little extra cash by working the door at a Peer Pressure Event. Recognizing a marketing opportunity when he saw one, Travis proposed a trade: In exchange for free dresses, this hearty doorgirl would not only wear the clothes on the job, but also do a little promotional sweet talking every time someone commented on her duds. Which means she was doing an awful lot of sweetalking. It was the perfect union. Travis got some exposure and a cute girl looked all the better for it.

Travis Taddeo is no longer obligated to give-away his goods to ensure they’re sported by Montreal’s doorgirls. Rather, he, and his duds, are everywhere. Since graduating from LaSalle College in 2007, Travis has quickly made a name for himself in the fashion world working with numerous top designers, the W Hotel and most recently, being scooped up by one of New York’s most prestigious agencies, Mao PR. Of course, like all ambitious designers, Travis knew that social networking is important and more importantly, fun. Although he would now consider himself a retired party-boy, Travis paid his dues in Montreal’s underground club scene, always drawing inspiration for streetwear from his entourage of eclectic peers. ‚ÄòI love being involved in underground culture because you‚Äôre basically part of something that outsiders will only get when it‚Äôs over,‚Äô explains Travis. ‚ÄòStreetwear is a combination of edgy lifestyle mixed with bad behavior. It happens in all the right places and either scares people off or draws them directly too it.‚Äô

And this ahead-of-the-curve underground individualism is evident in Travis’s eponymous Spring/Summer 2009 Collection which features a jarring yet elegant collection of Greco-Roman inspired pieces with a futuristic fierceness. Bright metallics couple with black to form distinct silhouettes, making the line a powerfully specific collection, clearly crafted with a particular muse in mind. ‚ÄòIt is basically about this girl who doesn’t take anything from anyone. She’s not mean or hateful; she just knows what she wants and how to have fun doing it. I guess that’s why I took the road warrior as my main source of inspiration. She’s just this girl walking down the road ready to kill or rather, ready to take what she wants. There is no stopping her.‚Äô

Yeah, we like this girl. We like her a lot. So, when we asked Travis to design a specific piece for the hearty girl, we were thrilled when he envisioned a similar female. ‘The ultimate hearty girl knows what she wants. She’ll be wearing something fierce.’ Like the road warrior in us all. You know, just with less dirt and better shoes.

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And, presenting the hearty dress!!!

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You can win the hearty dress (fur not included)!

Take a pic in your worst dress and twitter it to us at @heartymagazine.com or if your shy you can email it to us at newdress@heartymagazine.comn. The person with the best picture, and worst dress, will get this original Travis Taddeo hearty dress to replace that garbage worthy garment. There’s no shame in getting ugly with it! Good luck.

Leaders of the Pack: The Leading Ladies of Streetwear Unveiled

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

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illustrations by: Gillian Damborg

Playing poker requires finesse, restraint, foresight, and, in the immortal words of Kenny Rogers, knowing when to hold em, fold em, and precisely when to walk away. Considering that, this month’s cover ladies are veritable card sharks. They bet on themselves, went all in, and came out on top of the deck.

Streetwear—if that’s what you want to call it, as many in the industry are beginning to disassociate themselves from the term—has exploded in the last five years. Brands that emerged out of tiny studio apartments with a few graphic tees are now multifaceted businesses—their gear reaching bare backs around the world. The men’s game exploded quickly but the women’s side of the industry was slower to realize. Initially neglected, ladies were left with the option of buying men’s tees and sneakers in small sizes and lacked an established community to call their own. Then suddenly, women’s brands started popping up, carving a place for women in streetwear.

Granted, today there are still more men‚Äôs brands, but the female labels represent the best of the best. As Leah from Married to the Mob says, ‚ÄòThe men‚Äôs brands mostly (not all, but a lot!) look the same, but the female lines have their own look and feel. Pretty dope.‚Äô This sentiment is echoed by Hellz Bellz founder and head designer, Lanie, who points out that her line is far more than merely a complement to menswear, noting, ‚ÄòWe’re not just the sister counterparts to the men‚Äôs streetwear brands. We’re now able to stand on our own and become forces to be reckoned with.‚Äô

The four women of our cover are most certainly forces to be reckoned with. Each has blazed a trail and filled a void in different aspects of the culture they have come to dominate. Hearty presents, queens of the street fashion pack.

First up is legendary graffiti artist Claw Money, who has been bombing the streets for decades with her iconic paw with three claws. She was around when women were a rare breed in graf, and now also owns a clothing and accessories line.

Not only does our second feature femme run Married to the Mob, one of the biggest women’s streetwear lines, Leah McSweeney, also orchestrates a forum for women to speak their mind through the MOB Blog. ‘I grew up in NYC most my life. I drank 40s at the cube, went to Wash Square Park after clubs to continue the party, shopped on Lafeyette in 1995—this is where the “streetwear” culture grew from.’

Lanie Alabanza-Barcena, is the founder and creator of the other titan of women‚Äôs street clothing–Hellz Bellz. ‚ÄòI grew up in the culture. It’s not something that I was fascinated by and jumped on the “streetwear” bandwagon,‚Äô Lanie says.

Finally, on the retail side of things, Sarah from colette, buys for and operates one of the biggest streetwear boutiques in the industry. Her Paris store is a unique combination of skate shop, gallery, bookstore, and couture house. She consistently sets the mark for innovative, exclusive collaborations.

But pimpin’ ain’t easy. Not to mention the recession sucks. On the upside, the times have forced people to be more creative and flushed out brands that were coasting. Despite this, these ladies are still beating the house. All having been successful with their own unique personalities, not caring what others thought—their attitude’s are inspiring. ‘Do you!’ So the saying goes. These ladies did them, but in turn did something for all of us.

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