Archive for the ‘Current Issue’ Category

Everybody Wins: Flag Garland

Tuesday, August 24th, 2010

Summer was nice while it lasted but with all of the new fashion fall wears (and being able to sleep under the covers) we decided to make a flag garland as a surrender to fall. So, whether you’re heading back to a dorm room, just changed addresses or are “decorating challenged” this easy craft will add something to any room.

What you’ll need:

1. fabric (old clothes work well)
2. rope, string or cord
3. scissors
4. an iron
5. sewing thread and needle or sewing machine

Step One:
Cut out your flag shape, you can use the first one as a guide for the rest of them. Experiment with triangles or squares for a more nautical look.

Step Two:
Fold over approximately one inch at the top of the flags and press with the iron. Pressing is the motion of lifting and pressing the iron down in a vertical motion. This sets the fabric. Always make sure the iron is at the right temperature for the fabric you’re using.

Step Three:
Place your cord in the crease of the fold and sew shut.

Now, raise your white (or whatever color or pattern you chose) flag in truce too!

International Playground

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Wanting to create a space where people could loose themselves—a playground, but for adults–Johnny Pizzolato and Virginia Craddock, started International Playground, a collective that brings fashion, art, commerce and a little fun together. The concept is simple but it works, party in the front (the store), business in the back (the showroom).

International Playground is tucked away on a side street in the Lower East Side of New York  at 13 Stanton St., away from the more popular locations of Ludlow and Rivington Streets. Avoiding the confines of traditional commerce, the store serves as a creative front to push and display their unique lines, mostly New York and Scandinavian-based brands from Mary Meyer to H Fredriksson to Vibe Johansson. In a city inundated with shops, showrooms, publicists, and sales agents, this is a secret garden, where risk-takers and avant garde designers flourish.

Six months following the opening of their first location in NY, the dynamic duo are already set to open their second location. With only three weeks notice, the two packed their bags and headed West. Away from Hollywood’s yellow tans and questionable blond dos, they’ll be taking over the old Mohawk General retail space in Echo Park, Los Angeles. The new location will feature similar, yet awesome brands, books, accessories and jewelry lines to their New York location.

Upon visiting either location be sure to listen while you look, Girlie Action the NYC-based music agency has curated the International Playground sound with tunes by some of our favorite bands including Yacht as well as Andrew WK and Sia.

International Playground will open its LA doors on Thursday, August 12th from 5pm-9pm with complimentary refreshments provided by Bandit Wine and NYC/LA based Babycakes Bakery.  First Day discounts of 20% off everything in the store.

Employees: Mel Patchett (former Revolve, Forward Forward buyer and MAS co-founder), more coming soon

Where are you located: 1102 Mohawk at Sunset, Echo Park & 13 Stanton Street, New York.

Some brands you carry: Mary Meyer, Fjallraven, Ernest Alexander, Vibe Johansson, Wackerhaus, Claw Money, Knock Out (matte polish), Carlos Campos, Andrea Crews, Yarimaki, H Fredriksson, Study NY, Nomia, Vera Meat, OH WOW books.

Nearby lunch spots: Bright Spot Diner, Coffee Pot, Wine for the People (weekends and dinner), El Camino (coming soon)

Earn Your Keep: Una Kim of Keep Shoes

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

Interview: Hana May
Photos: Kenza Chaouai

Una Kim, one of the founders of Keep Shoes, has been DIYing it since she was in high school. She staged one of her most memorable projects when her parents were out of town. She threw a concert at her house. “Not only did I organize the show, I cooked a huge meal for every one who came over, and I even made the paper that the invitations were made out of, using a blender and old newspaper.”

Members of the bands that performed that night now play in little-known bands like Animal Collective, who Keep also happens to have a collaboration coming up with.

Her early efforts may not have thrilled her parents, but it would be hard for anyone not to be proud of Una’s ability to make something out of, well, anything. “I think both the DIY ethic and the sense of community and family really empowered people to feel that you could make anything, that you were capable of anything,” Una says. “That realization was one of the most fundamentally influential things in my life.”

With this experience and confidence, Una launched Keep with Margot Jacobs in 2005.

Originally from the East Coast, Una relocated to the West Coast (she completed her MBA at Stanford), where Keep is based. The West Coast lifestyle has had a strong impact on Una, affecting the style and beliefs with which she infuses her line. All Keep shoes are all cruelty-free. No animals were killed in making them. And, as Una puts it, “No kids, no whips, no factories where you can’t take bathroom breaks.” Una still misses the East Coast every day, but has no plans to take Keep away from sunny L.A.

Sticking to the do-it-yourself ethic, Una has kept Keep independent. But as such, Una sometimes has problems with the big kids. Large companies have so many resources, so Una believes they should be the ones driving culture. “Too often, they’re too scared, too paralyzed, too lazy or too encumbered to be able to produce their own creative, and therefore pay scraps to real artists and end up co-opting culture with watered down designs.” She believes companies are incapable of connecting with intellectual human beings, which is why big companies have so much trouble designing sneakers woman actually want to wear—which, shockingly, aren’t always pink. “I am sure there are lots of women who want to wear pink and sneakers; I just don’t know any of them.”

As a philosophy, Keep values its friends and family and keeps them near. This helps Keep stay grounded. The Keep extended family reaches from Ray Potes of Hamburger Eyes to Wendy Yao of Ooga Booga (who both happen to be hearty past features). Shoes are named after their friends and family, and their most recent lookbook paid homage to the people that had helped them build to where they are today.

With their fifth anniversary on the horizon, we caught up with Una to talk about shoes, life and success. From punk music to taking shots at Nike to the shoes she likes to wear (which aren’t always her own), learn all about Una Kim and Keep.

Punk and independent music and arts scenes were a huge influence on you. What would you say was the biggest influence?

I think music and art was the framework through which I discovered things—it was how I met people, how I got into different interests. It was something of a filter through which I processed the rest of the world. Most of my closest friends to this day are people I met through music – whether it was playing with them, booking their bands, or just listening to their records. I think when you grow up with people who are naturally creative and curious, you in turn are inspired to be creative and curious.

This helped in demystifying the process of creating things. Can you explain what you meant by this?

When you realize that the things or people you idolized, like musicians, are humans just like you, then you approach the world as a player and not just as a spectator. So often when you’re young you don’t value your own creative energy. You think it’s not as valid as people who are established. Punk and indie rock fundamentally changed that. Labels like Dischord and Simple Machines, which were based so close to me, not only produced amazing records but also encouraged and educated their listeners to participate and also produce. They were saying, ‘We make music and you can too.’ A simple philosophy like that can change your entire relationship to culture.

You played in bands. What instrument did you play, did you sing and what kinds of bands?

I sang in middle school chorus. I grew up playing piano and cello, and played those instruments in bands, but mostly I played the drums. It’s hard to describe what kind of bands I was in. I guess whatever music I was into at the time. Some were more experimental than others, some more pop-y like a Talking Heads meets Minute Men.

You have your MBA and run a creative company. How do you balance your right brain and left brain?

It just happens naturally. I’m not sure, but I think that’s my secret weapon.

The Keep name was partially based on the idea of a keepsake.

We weren’t named Keep just for the idea of a keepsake, though that was part of it. I like the concept of a keepsake, that an object could hold a memory and be valuable enough on a personal level to want to treasure it. But I also like all the other connotations of “keep” such as “earning your keep” which signifies independence or to “keep at it” which suggests perseverance.

What are your favorite personal keepsakes?

In regards to keepsakes, I am a bit of a pack rat so I have a lot of little things that are favorite keepsakes of mine. I’ve got a little coin purse that my grandmother used to carry around with her until the day she died. I have a pretty big coffee mug collection–probably one of the reasons why we have a Keep mug.

Keep was initially created as a brand for women, when did men start adopting your silhouettes and wearing the shoes?

Since day one I’ve received emails from guys who wanted to wear the shoes. We expanded our size range pretty quickly, starting with the second season. I didn’t expect to get that much love from the dudes, but it was pretty heavy from the beginning.

I think it really says something when you have a women’s company appeal to men, because the inverse is usually the norm.

I suppose I felt vindicated in a certain sense, because so many things I was into growing up were denied to me, simply because it didn’t come in my size. But beyond the initial smugness, I’m just happy we appeal to a broad range of people. I’m psyched that guys like Keep and I hope they continue to buy Keep and support it. Gender, especially in fashion, is such a construct. Just like what you like and support the things that resonate with you. That’s all I could hope from my customers.

You’ve said having bigger companies copy your styles at times helps you by making the mainstream public more aware of your aesthetic. With your aesthetic pretty well known now, do you still feel the same way?

Of course it annoys me when companies steal our designs, but it’s more out of principle than anything. A large company has so many resources, I feel like they should be the ones who drive culture. But too often they’re too scared, too paralyzed, too lazy or too encumbered to be able to produce their own creative and therefore pay scraps to real artists and end up co-opting culture with watered down designs. They buy their way into understanding the consumer, and that just annoys me. I wish they just stuck with what they knew best. That’s why companies like Patagonia or Nike in the early days were so rad, because they created their own culture around what their core values were–they were originals. Now Nike just chases cultural tail like they’re a horny teenager with no game. It’s disappointing.

I supposed I am too tired to care when people copy our styles. I think the beauty of Keep isn’t just in the colors or the materials, but what the brand represents. I also think that consumers, the ones who really care, can tell when there is an implicit understanding of the aesthetic in the product. I think it’s funny when brands rip us off and make their version of Keeps and they get it all wrong–they just make us look better. Though sometimes they do an exact replica and that’s hard to swallow. Some people will always care about who the original is. At the same time, if you don’t care then that’s cool. Buy Keep if you like it, leave it if you don’t. We’re just a shoe company, so there’s no point in taking it too seriously.

Do you wear other shoe brands?

Sure. People say I don’t wear my Keeps enough. Sometimes I feel like I’m in a band wearing my own band’s t-shirt. It’s not in my nature to be a 24/7 promoter. Maybe that’s why we aren’t bigger or more successful. If I don’t rock Keeps, I wear Clarks or a particular kind of Birkenstock. Sort of crunchy hippie if you know what I mean. I wear New Balance running shoes. Flip flops. I do live in Cali after all.

Heels?

I wear heels on special occasions. Typically when I’m in New York or on the East Coast which is funny since you walk more then. I like Marc Jacobs heels from the early 2000s–that was a good era for Aerosoles as well. My most recent heels purchase was from Slow and Steady Wins the Race. In general though, I look pretty soccer mom-ish on the day to day in Cali. I’m one step away from wearing my mom’s SAS orthopedic shoes.

What Keep styles are the most popular right now?

The Ramos is our number one, all time classic. The Nuss and the Benten always do well and we just launched the Solis and that’s been getting a lot of love.

Will you ever move back East or relocate the company back East?

I don’t think we’ll ever re-locate the company. Will I ever move back East? I’m not sure. I guess being bi-coastal could be cool but I’m a long way away from having the dough to do that. My family is all on the East Coast though, so never say never. I love my life on the West Coast, but I do miss the East Coast almost every day.

What advice would you give young female entrepreneurs?

There is no crying in business. Suck it up, don’t let your emotions overrun you. Always be cool, calm and collected. Work hard, work smart, and don’t bitch. Don’t take things too seriously. Believe.

What’s coming up from you and Keep?

Personally, I’ve got about three other companies coming up that are in the works. Hopefully getting married soon if the economy stabilizes enough. As for Keep–Keep will keep being Keep. There is a men’s clothing line coming in the future. Also our fifth year anniversary is coming. Plus a collaboration with Animal Collective that will benefit charity as well as a project with British based artists Atherton Lin.

Where’s your heart at?

With my family, always. You know who you are.

Jeff Ladouceur

Monday, July 12th, 2010

Artist Jeff Ladouceur, straddles the US and Canada. The West Coast and the East Coast, dividing his time between Brooklyn, NY and Vancouver, BC. He just can’t seem to settle down. And although Jeff dabbles in the 3D realm from time to time (he once created a 35 foot inflatable sculpture), his bread and butter is drawing. His work is twisted, funny, surreal, and dark reaching deep within a place most people chose to ignore. It’s his way of digesting the world around him. He also seems to have an affinity for elephants.“I brush away the sand,” Jeff says. “And there they [elephants] are, in one form or another.” Jeff’s work is as strange and sweet, as he is himself, but being very critical of his own work, he still doesn’t feel satisfied. But he promised us he’ll let us know when that day comes.

What inspired you to start drawing?

I’ve never not drawn, and things evolved at key points in my life—at age fifteen I gave up directly copying stuff and just let new images, my own silly images, bloom forth. At 21, the sort of characters and condensed scenes you see in the work now, started to appear, slightly distorted. Drawing was a natural way to digest the world around me and then also you have this object that helps you communicate with others, which can give you a free pass for being awkward.

Did you have any art “heroes” growing up?

As a kid I looked up to and felt a connection with things like Leonardo DaVinci’s sketchbooks and old Mad Magazines and later on I stumbled across people like Crumb, Bosch, Basquiat and Guston.

When was your first show that you thought was successful?

Well, I suppose my first proper solo show was ’successful’ in a sense. Everything sold, it got written up, but it’s rare that I walk away feeling “what a success!’  I am always critical of my own stuff and I have yet to put something forth that I consider ’successful’ or a complete vision put forth.

I will…and when I do I will write you a letter and tell you.

You have a thing for elephants. Explain.

I should have a few prepared bangers for that one, but I would rather hear you explain them (that can be interesting sometimes). They are recurring images that sit nestled amongst a hundred others. It’s beyond me. They emerged in my teen years but I’ll probably be coughing up elephant shaped beads when I’m ninety.

Was there anyone who gave you that little push or helping hand to get your name out there?


Oh yes, of course, I’ll just mention a few cool people;  L’Oie de Cravan in Montreal who published a small book of drawings of mine ages ago, that was seen and got me into a group show at White Columns in New York. The writer, Lee Henderson who introduced me to Scott and Andrea at ZieherSmith where I show in New York. Oh, and Jason Mclean, Paul Butler and Richard Heller are awesome too.

You move frequently between Vancouver and New York. What is it about each of those places that keeps you coming back, and what is it that sends you away?

Yeah, it’s a bit of a nervous condition now. I really should settle down, sit still and get some proper work done. In fact that’s what I’m about  to do. You’ve caught me at a pivotal moment! I used to wish I could weave the two places together. Obviously nature and family is what brings me to B.C. and New York is home too because there are really great folks there doing great things.

Many of your drawings convey this feeling of bearing heavy weight, with characters struggling to push, pull, carry, or extract something. Where does this come from and has it always been a consistent theme in your work?

Yep, yep. These are just what you end up with after carving away. Some basic images, themes and patterns emerge and recur.  Again, I can’t actually explain each one or I’ll start babbling like an idiot, but they seem to arise on their own. It comes from the back, from underneath. Those images you mentioned and may eventually work themselves out, we’ll see. Something else will show up totally abstract or alien—let’s hope for that.

What’s a must-have tool for you and your work? Like if you could only have one item on a deserted island…

Well I can satisfy my urges with basic items, ink and paper, pencil, but on a deserted island I would probably turn to sculpture of varying scale. And my wish would probably be for a wife-buddy.

Are you a sunlight or moonlight type of guy?

Moonlight guy for sure. I was born a moon person. Maybe I’ll take up surfing this summer, and go naked at the beach and find some balance.  I’ve met some really sunny people lately.

Jeff Ladoucer’s 35 foot inflatable sculpture at the Vancouver Art Gallery, 2008.

What is your biggest accomplishment in the art world?

Oh, that accomplishment is yet to come. But, so far the ‘biggest’ thing that I’ve done is the 35 foot inflatable sculpture that was attached to the outside of the Vancouver Art Gallery in 2008.

Who are some of your favorite emerging artists?

I’m sure I’m out of touch and there are some hidden gems and secret people out there who I am unaware of at the moment. But some of my favorites are my friends too. I like Eddie Martinez, Matt Leines, Taylor Mckimens, Aurel Schmidt, Tomoo Gokita, Allison Schulnick. Those folks are fairly well known now though, and deservedly so.

What projects are you working on right now? What do you have coming up?

Can’t really talk about it right now, you’ll see soon enough. Just various levels of new images that have been stewing for a while which will be a show and a book.

Where’s your heart at?

It was in my toe, hiding for some time, but it’s coming back up for some light.

Alexia is Hentsch Man

Monday, June 14th, 2010

Alexia Hentsch, and her partner Max von Hurter felt the menswear market was missing simple and affordable. So the childhood friends, created Hentsch Man, a straightforward, yet elegant and wearable menswear line—a one-stop shop for men to shop. The Hentsch Man, man is “preppy, but cool.” Alexia says. “A sort of mix between a southern Italian and a Parisian—with the youth of a New Yorker.” Think uptown tailoring, mixed with downtown cool.

Born in Sao Paulo, Brazil, Alexia is now stationed, along with Hentsch Man in London. She graduated in Graphic Design from the Rhode Island School of Design, and has been working in branding ever since. This experience gave her the knowledge (and gusto) to start a brand.

At the beginning Alexia went to pitch her line to Opening Ceremony, bringing only a white tee shirt and a brand book. It worked. “I think that although there wasn’t much product, they liked the concept.” Alexia says. “They told us to go off and make some more products and come back. So about a year later, we went to see them with eight shirts and four trousers. That’s when they took us on as our sales agents. Since then, they’re been distributing our brand in the US and Japan, as well as stocking us in their stores.”

The Henstch Man continues to evolve, offering both seasonal products and staples. Their white tee shirt, for example, never changes, while other items vary season to season. Every season, they try to add one or two new items to the collection. “Either a new cut of trouser, a new jacket or accessory, something to keep the collection fresh.”

Alexia spends most of her time traveling between the different factories, mills, suppliers, and trade shows. Day to day, she’s designing, researching, conducting shoots, and doing a lot of administrative work. “I’ve just hired someone to take on the office management side of things, hopefully this will free up my time so I can spend more of it researching and creating.”

Sneak peek of Hentsch Man A/W ‘10.

Like a lot of brands nowadays, Alexia has embraced the idea of the pop-up shop. “The first one came about as a complete after-thought, but ended up being so successful, that we decided to do a second (this time with a little more planning!)” The first was the Spring/Summer 2009 Pop-up Shop in Notting Hill and the second the Autumn/Winter 2009 Pop-up Shop in Mayfair. The temporary shops have been important in spreading their brand awareness in London, and beyond.

Max and Alexia, are currently working on a permanent store in London, which should be open in the next year. Alexia loves London “It’s got such a good mix of old and new. Old world Europe, with all of its weird idiosyncratic traditions, but all of the new vibrance and creativity of our generation.” And even though she thinks her birth place, Sao Pauolo has more energy, her favorite city is Rio de Janiero. “There’s just something about it. The heat, the light, the beach, the Cariocas.” And in the next 5 years, they’re working on taking the brand to Brazil. “Brazil really is the place to be these days!”

Alexia is a woman set to dominate in a menswear world. “I love it,” Alexia says. “I feel like it gives me an advantage as I don’t design for myself, but rather, what I would like to see on men.”

Hamburger Eyes for Ray Potes

Monday, June 7th, 2010

Ray Potes, Self-portrait.

Ray Potes of Hamburger Eyes, just released a shoe with Etnies and closed his biggest exhibition yet, Casual Abyss (sorry if you missed it). For this piece, he releases a collection of ten of his favorite photos (and one of his alien, Gray Gray). Photos can be seen throughout the interview. Enjoy!

Ray Potes in one of the coolest guys on the planet and it only takes about one night to figure this out. Or maybe because his alien Gray Gray told us, and he’s traveled around the galaxy so Gray Gray would know. Ray’s shy, humble and a dead cool guy who runs this amazing photo journal, but shrugs it off like, “I’m no big deal.” It’s really nice and refreshing.

Ray is one of the men behind Hamburger Eyes, a bi-annually published glossy black and white photo journal with equally as much visual beauty as cultural credibility. Growing up in Honolulu, Ray worked the graveyard shift at Kinkos where he would turn his recreational photography into zines. Hamburger Eyes is named after the word Ray and his pals used to describe the “come-fuck-me” look that girls give dudes. “In 2001 the first issue came out,” said Ray. “The first four issues were Xeroxed, then I moved to S.F. and we switched up the printing.”

And almost ten years later, Hamburger Eyes isn’t just a magazine, the headquarters are a epicenter of photography (they actually refer to it as the “Photo Epicenter”), which includes a gallery, full service dark room, studio space and store. Hamburger Eyes is a hot bed of  activity, resting on Lilac St. in the Mission District of SF—a neighborhood famous for birthing artists of all kinds.

Besides being an amazing photographer and running a successful photo journal, Ray is just one of those guys who is, for a lack of a better word, cool. He’s polite, humble and kind of shy, but the dude is a genuine weirdo. Ray used to play bass in The Bees Knees and in the flesh, he looks like a bratty skate punk swimming in man clothes. He’s nerdy yet poised. He mumbles and giggles a lot, but it’s clear that the cogs in his brain are churning between every childlike joke. His most prized possession is a toy alien named Gray Gray who sits in the Photo Epicenter on a foam throne. I learned quickly that Gray Gray and Ray Ray go hand in hand.

How was working the graveyard at Kinkos?

It was cool. I loved it. Sometimes, I think if I stayed there maybe I would be manager or some shit.

I think you’re happier doing Hamburger Eyes. Why did you decide to move to SF?

A lot of my friends and family already lived here, also I tried to live here before and it wasn’t working out so I thought I better try it again.

Have you always been into photography?

Yeah, my dad was into it. He gave me one of his cameras [a Minolta] when I was 12 years old. I didn’t get way into it until I was 18. But when I was 16 he bought me a Nikon that I still use.

Tell me about the concept behind Hamburger Eyes.

“The continuing Story of Life on Earth.” I stole that from a National Geographic ad. [Laughs.]

For you, what makes a great photograph?

I think if it can tell some kind of story right away, the 1000 words thing, you know?

By the way, sorry to do this to you when you are hungover.

[Laughs.] Are my answers sucking? If you’ve ever seen any of my other interviews, this one is going good actually.

Okay, good. What have you been up to lately?

I just got a video camera and don’t care about anything else right now. I think it’s weirding the homies out. [It's] a little HD and it goes underwater. I haven’t been filming anything in particular, just learning all the softwares and workflow and audio stuff. I did some green screen yesterday and I have a couple ideas for movies that are on deck.

What goes in the Hamburger Eyes office besides Gray Gray and late night partying?

[Laughs.] Well, we got an X-Box now so lots of that [laughs] and cable, so lots of NBA. We also got a Midi Keyboard and green screen. We’re screen-printing some new shirts that are coming out soon. I’m setting it up so I don’t ever have to leave [the Photo Epicenter]. Like I said, we are just wrapping up a show, so we were printing loco style for a while.

What do you think about the art scene in SF?

Pretty cool. I think we could not do Hamburger Eyes in any other city, that’s for sure. We’re spoiled here.

How so?

Well, I can only speak from the photography industry side of things, but it’s a small city so it was kinda easy to meet photographers and get resourceful right away. Also, there’s a huge photo history here, so a photo audience for our kind of photography was already built in.

Who contributes to Hamburger Eyes?

It started off as friends and colleagues and then friends of friends and colleagues of colleagues. Now we have it open with all the information on our site so now we get photos from all over the planet.

Where did Gray Gray come from?

Gray Gray came from a binary star system called Zeta-reticuli. He crashed here 4 million years ago. His birthday is coming up.

Whoa, party time! How does it feel to have a successful photography magazine?

[Laughs] It’s successful? Someone tell my bill collectors.

Culturally.

No, it’s awesome.

Gray Gray.
Related Posts with Thumbnails