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Ray Mate of Mighty Healthy

Monday, February 1st, 2010

Interview: Hana May

Hundreds of vendors on Canal Street in New York can help you affirm your love for the city. People worldwide wear the iconic “I heart NY” tee shirts as an ode to the unofficial capital of North America. But Ray Mate, a native New Yorker and one of the founders of Mighty Healthy skate brand, liked New York better before. To counteract a loving sentiment in a city that’s known for anything but, Ray came out with a tee that said, “I loved NY before you moved here and made it suck.”

Mate grew up skating in New York at a time when skating wasn’t the “cool” sport it has become. Pharrell and Lupe Fiasco hadn’t yet run around toting skateboards in music videos and MTV wasn’t paying homage to the sport through a variety of reality shows. According to Mate, when he started skating, there were “about 20 skaters in New York.” He follows this with, “Well, maybe I was exaggerating a little bit.”

Going with what he knew, Mate officially launched Mighty Healthy in 2004 with partner Denis Iderman (though, according to his blog, “the people behind it have been shaping its character since the late 80’s”). Mate and Iderman planted their roots before the explosion of streetwear, putting themselves in a good place. (According to the Might Healthy website, Mighty Healthy is the “first, one and only Progressive Street brand.”) Today, skateboarding and streetwear is a different beast, so to speak (Hypebeast, the most popular streetwear website, gets 16 million page views a month), so instead of getting beaten up for carrying your board to school, you’re probably getting cool points. Mighty Healthy and Mate are at the forefront of this culture, Mate even has a Hypebeast blog. From button-ups to jeans to skate decks to hats, Mighty Healthy is “Good, bad and unapologetic.” His shirts are often adorned with equal parts political messages and humor (like his New York tee). And despite a scaled-down, recession-time fashion industry, Might Healthy is still kicking, recently adding denim to their list of do’s in Fall ’09. They’re currently working on Holiday 2010, which Mate tells us is titled Hell Fighters and will—for the first time for Mighty Healthy—introduce outerwear. Mate also tells us they’re working on a collaboration with the videogame Skate 3 (Mighty Healthy gear will be in the game!) and Mighty Healthy will be launching a full skate team this year, which will include skaters Gino Iannucci, Pete Eldridge, Danny Montoya and a fourth surprise. They’ll continue flowing skateshop riders worldwide.

While the streetwear and skateboarding industry have seen a variety of changes, a recent trend is a clean aesthetic in the look and feel of the clothing. Mate’s theory: “Basically, everyone is tired of looking like a kook.” In our interview, Mate complains about how kids are at home playing video games instead of out causing trouble in Canarsie and says he wants Mighty Healthy to represent NY’s hustle mentality (he has his fingers crossed). His advice for up and comers: ”Keep your lane and stay there” and “work with the homies and not with scumbags.” Works for us. But despite our questions, Mate gives us no insight into the women’s industry, with repetitive responses like “I dunno” (guess he’s keeping in his respective lane.), but he does touch on art and politics, the uniqueness of skateparks in New York, and nearly throws up half way through the interview.

When you were growing up, you mentioned there were probably 20 skaters total in New York. When and how did you see skating evolve to what it is today in New York?

Well, maybe I was exaggerating a little bit. Skateboarding was just not as popular as it is now. There was no MTV shows like Rob and Big, The Life of Ryan Sheckler or Bam Margera influencing and introducing kids to skateboarding.

I mean, the skateboard scene was so small but was also very powerful back then. Today it’s so different. NY is like the place where all the pros come to visit. There are a lot of events that take place on the East Coast now. Red Bull’s Manny Mania bring by some of the illest skaters out there in skateboarding today.

Back then we didn’t have shit going on. Now there is skateparks in New York.

You’ve spent quite a bit of time skating out West. Do you think this has influenced the look of Mighty Healthy. If so, how?

I used to go to San Diego and Los Angeles a lot to skate with friends during the cold winters and hot summers.

Since then, I made so many friends on the West Coast that it seems that without a lot of my homies helping us spread the word about Mighty Healthy, Mighty Healthy would not be here today. I would like to believe that a lot of our supporters relate to us and not just follow our brand for the sake of trends.

We have many people that have been involved with us for like 2 decades. We’re not new to this at all.

I’ve read in some of your interviews that Mighty Healthy has an idea of selling a statement behind it. What sort of statements are you trying to get across?

Most of our artwork and designs usually go over people’s heads, but Denis and I don’t mind it at all. We just make sure that we do our best to make our message and artwork look clean. Sometimes it’s simple and sometimes it’s not. Oh well.

For example, we did a tee that said “I loved NY before you moved here and made it suck.” The artwork was pretty basic and at the end of the day we think it’s pretty funny, so we get to laugh at it. I know there is a ton of people that feel the same way as we do. No offense to anyone that just moved to NY. I miss the old New York. Sorry, people.

Oh, man, I can’t concentrate on this interview. I am on a flight to LA and this couple next to me are practically spooning. I may get sick soon!

What are some of the more political messages or statements you’ve put forth?

We sometimes talk about how the internet and technology is ruining the way kids are growing up these days and all they do is play video games or sit in front of the computer watching YouTube.

Shit, when I was young, I was out in the streets, lurking in Canarsie, playing stickball and causing trouble. Now kids just stay home and play video games all day.

Do you think streetwear/skate brands have a certain responsibility based on their potential influence on the culture and on people?

I believe so. You always have to remember where you came from. Obviously in time your views change and you mature. I think streetwear and skateboarding have been influencing fashion for decades

What brands do this well?

The current brands that do this well in my opinion is Acapulco Gold and Huf. AG always host some of the best skate events in NY. Huf does a pretty good job too.

What’s your title at Mighty Healthy and what sort of things does this translate to you doing on a daily basis? IE, what do your days look like?

I just work there and occupy space. I would like to say that I am a Jack of All Trades. I am very hands on with the design, marketing, sales, special projects. I don’t believe in titles. Just work hard and help Mighty Healthy grow. That’s been my mission since we started.

Where are you trying to take Mighty Healthy in the next five years?

I would like to have retail established in NY, LA, SF, MIA, Japan, London and the Philippines. Full-blown pro and am skate team.

I want Mighty Healthy to represent NY’s hustle mentality. Cross fingers.

Talking with people in the industry, I know a lot of brands are trying to expand their costumers and accounts to a wider audience. There are obvious reasons for this, but do you think doing this will take away from the appeal of streetwear and/or the special nature of the industry?

In progression, you have no choice but to do that. I am sure not a lot of people will like that, but that is the nature of the beast. I don’t think this will kill the appeal. Nike is a great example of what they have done with their brand. Wait, Nike is a different animal. Shit, we will see what happens!

The t-shirt is an art canvas?

Depends, I guess. I am getting tired or answering all these questions. Think my ADD is kicking in.

In streetwear, more and more, recently, looks are being trimmed down to a more basic and clean aesthetic. Whether it be a stylized thing or as a result of the economy, do you think clean looks will stick? Will it ever go back to loud prints?

I don’t think everyone is into the loud colors or all-over print anymore. The grown look is always timeless and classic. Basically, everyone is tired of looking like a kook.

Do you think there is some truth to people claiming that it’s the people behind the brands, not necessarily the designs or the product, that makes them popular?

I would like to believe it’s a mix of both. When both the people behind the brand are rad and they have a kick ass line, it makes you want to support them 110 percent.

What do you think makes a brand successful these days?

Be true to yourself and stay on your path. I see a lot of guys just doing whatever is hot right now. Keep your lane and stay there.

Why do you think there are not really any women’s skate brands?

I bet someone is trying to do one right now. Rookie was a dope skate brand.

Skate and street culture are both very male-dominated. Do you think the culture will progress to accept woman as much as it does men?

Both skate and street culture is a big dude fest.

Where do you see women’s streetwear going in the next five years?

I dunno.

What women’s brands do you think are killing it right now? What are your favorite female brands?

I dunno.

Designs or things would you like to see for the women’s industry? What do you think the women’s industry is missing?

I dunno.

What are some of the more important lessons you’ve learned through all your experience in the industry?

Work with the homies and not with scumbags.

Where’s you heart at?

I love my mom and I love what I do. My heart is NY.

Tags: Mighty Healthy, Ray Mate
Posted in Boy Meets Girl, Current Issue, Features | 9 Comments »

Benny Gold

Wednesday, September 9th, 2009

Before a mention of paper planes conjured notions of M.I.A., Benny Gold had designed his paper plane logo, an image he considers his emblem. He sees it as an iconic symbol of youth and growth, and has even released a skate wax in its shape. ‚ÄòOnce a paper plane is in flight, it is all about exploration,‚Äô Benny says.

Benny is a skater, graphic designer, brand owner and, from what we can tell, a pretty great husband. He created the original identities for the Huf skate brand and Mashed fixed-gear brand, and has worked for a range of clients from Nike to The Body Shop to Interscope records. Benny‚Äôs work is versatile and has appeared on different surfaces, from hats to key chains to stickers. His work was so popular that, in 2001, Benny launched a self-titled clothing line. And when pieces from his line drop‚Äîlike his Doughboy New Era caps or his Benny Gold x Common Magazine leather key chains‚Äîthe blogs talk.

We caught up with Benny to talk about his high school doodling, working for small skate brands versus large corporations, San Francisco and his new sticker flick group. With his positive attitude and friendly smile, with Benny, it‚Äôs all golden.

What did your notebooks look like in high school? What kind of doodling were you mostly doing?

What a good question to start off with. My notebooks in high school had skateboard and punk band logos drawn all over them, mostly H-Street and Subhumans. One day at my local skate spot (the post office), my friend and I met this skateboarder from out of town. He was so good. It was amazing and my friend and I were blown away. It was surreal how good he was. He had this little dog drawing on his grip tape that said ‚Äòanarchy dog.‚Äô I tried to recreate the anarchy dog on my high school notebooks, as well, in hopes it would make me skate as good as he did.

What made you want to get into design in the very first place?

I didn‚Äôt get interested in design until I was already studying in art school. All I wanted to do was skateboard. I had no plans past that. When I graduated college, my parent forced me to go to art school because I could draw somewhat decent. I‚Äôm really glad they did!

What other kind of art besides graphic design are you feeling these days?

Over the years, I really got focused and specialized in design, mostly identity design and apparel graphics. I used to paint a lot, but decided I needed to focus and grow myself as a designer.

How does working for a big commercial client like Target differ from working for skate industry clients?

They pay better‚Äîha. Honestly, though, I approach every project the same and try to put out the best work I possibly can regardless of who it‚Äôs for.

What differentiates the skate scene in San Francisco from other cities?

At one point, SF was the place to be for skating. I always wanted to live here as long as I could remember. I think the great thing about the skate scene in SF is that everyone that is here feels the same way. We are all happy to be here and that creates a really strong, positive scene.

Who are some female skaters you think are dope?

Elissa Steamer fuckin‚Äô rips! I have been out skating with her and she will do some of the gnarliest stuff. I have so much respect for her. She is awesome!

Why do you think there aren’t really any women‚Äôs skate brands?

There has been some in the past that have started out as women‚Äôs skate brands. There might be a void in the market. Hopefully someone will launch one that is successful!

Skate and street culture are both very male-dominated. Do you think the culture will progress to accept woman as much as it does men?

I hope so. I don‚Äôt think that either exclude women.

Tags: Benny Gold, Huf, Mash
Posted in Back Issue, Boy Meets Girl, Features, Issue 5 | 5 Comments »

Matt George

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

matt-george-1

Self-portrait.

Don‚Äôt let those baby blues fool you. Matt George is serious about his business. Having conquered the great north (he‚Äôs opened up his Goodfoot stores in all major Canadian cities), Matt is now picking up property across the American Monopoly board‚Äîspending half of his time in sunny L.A. and recently teaming up with one of the biggest names in music and fashion right now. ‚ÄòI love to be challenged,‚Äô George says. ‚ÄòWorking with brands like Stussy, adidas, or someone I consider one of the hardest working people I know‚Äô (read: Kanye). Keeping himself busy, Matt has his hand in a bunch of different pots. He owns United Front, which is the parent company to several brands, some of the more visible ones being Goodfoot, Ransom, Nomad and Nvsble Tailors. Despite all the knowledge he‚Äôs acquired through his vast experience, Matt is always trying to learn new things. ‚ÄòThe minute you stop learning, sleeping 8 hours a night and sweating everyday, you become the norm. I‚Äôm not interested in being a part of that movement.‚Äô

And even though all of these conquests might give Matt reason to be full of himself, he‚Äôs continually challenging his own accomplishments. When we ask him why he hasn‚Äôt really ventured into the women‚Äôs side of the industry, he says, ‚ÄòI would love to! But I haven‚Äôt quite mastered the men‚Äôs side just yet.‚Äô But ladies, he is looking‚Äîfor a potential new business partner. That is, if the right situation arose. ‚ÄòI think there is a lot of room for this, but I haven‚Äôt met the right person to work with.‚Äô However, he does have a couple of smaller projects in the works for women, including the Ransom footwear line with adidas, which he divulges will have styles for women in the spring of 2010 (we‚Äôre looking forward to them now).

Between London, LA, flights, time changes, meetings, emails and calls we finally caught up with Matt. We talked to him about his opinions on the women‚Äôs fashion industry, how easy it can be to be successful, Kanye‚Äôs new line Pastelle‚Äîwhich he lets us know will have a women‚Äôs division‚Äîdesigning a car people actually want and reading about Chairman Mao.

With a fashion sense that people want to emulate, we asked Matt if style is something you have to be born with or something you can acquire. According to Matt, ‚ÄòEveryone has a style, some more aesthetically pleasing than others.‚Äô We‚Äôre hoping a little more of these aesthetically pleasing looks are available for us ladies sooner than later.

Where do you see women‚Äôs wear going in the next five years?

Women‚Äôs wear is going in the direction of simplicity‚Äîeffortless chic. Think Alexander Wang, Helmut Lang, Rick Owens, Balmain, Ann Demeulemeester. These fashion houses are all designing pieces that are easy to wear and trans-seasonal, each piece becoming a staple for everyday.

What women‚Äôs brands do you think are killing it right now?

This season, Givenchy, Balmain, Gareth Pugh, and Haider Ackermann.

What sort of designs or things would you like to see for the women‚Äôs industry? What do you think the women‚Äôs industry is missing?

I‚Äôm always more drawn to clothing that screams sex and strength. With men, why are the real timeless style icons like James Dean or Steve McQueen always top of the list? They all sell sex and strength. Women want to fuck these men; men want to be them. I think the same is true on the women‚Äôs side. When women are comfortable in their own skin, it is the sexiest trait. Women‚Äôs wear these days seems to be lacking this sex appeal. The homely look is for home. The boyfriend pants, shirts, bags is because you don‚Äôt have clean, warm, comfortable clothes at your or your man‚Äôs house.

There are some great women‚Äôs streetwear brands, but there aren‚Äôt really any brands that parallel the look or feel of a brand like Supreme or even Ransom. Why do you think this is?

I‚Äôm not sold on that women should wear or look towards the brands you mentioned as a go-to in their closet. I wouldn‚Äôt want to see any woman wearing clothing made by Supreme or Ransom.

Who are some individuals in the industry you think kill it for the ladies?

Carine Roitfeld, Emmanuelle Alt and Kate Lanphear are amazing editors of French Vogue and Elle Magazine. Their personal styles are effortless. On the web, I look at a number of things. Simple basic easy and on top of trends is http://neroandnoir.blogspot.com/

Why haven‚Äôt you really ventured into the women‚Äôs side of things yet?

I would love to! I haven‚Äôt quite mastered the men‚Äôs side just yet. I would also need a partner who has the vision and drive to make women‚Äôs project work. I think there is a lot of room for this but I haven‚Äôt met the right person to work with this on.

Any plans in designing women‚Äôs stuff for any of your lines?

Couple on the go. Nvsble Tailors is unisex and the Ransom footwear collection, which is produced by adidas, should have women‚Äôs side of the business before Fall 2010. I‚Äôd like to introduce some styles to friends and family first, to see what the reaction is going to be.

What are your favorite female brands?

Rick Owens, Josh Goot, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga T’s‚Ä¶

What do you think makes a brand successful these days?

A clear vision and direction. If you work hard on a plan and stick to it, it‚Äôs tough to go wrong. You also have to work harder and smarter than everyone around you. If you can complete one item off your list from the day before and have one win a day, you are miles away from the pack. No one will be able to keep up. You would be surprised how many of your peers can‚Äôt do this.

What are some of the more important lessons you‚Äôve learned through all your experience in the streetwear industry?

To be honest, I learn from the people around me. If I were a car sales man I would learn from the people around me. The particular industry I‚Äôm around hasn‚Äôt taught me anything. It‚Äôs the people I associate with. My team, my friends, ex-friends, ex-employees, family, etc.

What is your role working with Kanye? How did this particular opportunity come about?

I am currently setting up, staffing and managing design offices in LA and NYC for all things KW. I was introduced and brought on through my close friend Willo, who I have worked on many great projects with and who has being working with Kanye for years.

Will there be aspects of Kanye‚Äôs line for women?

I have a feeling the women‚Äôs collection will be as strong as, if not stronger than, the men‚Äôs.

When will it drop?

KW is going to perfect the pieces he is designing. It‚Äôs a constant process. When he is comfortable, he will pull the trigger and it will take the fashion world by storm.

A lot of projects you work on, you‚Äôve spearheaded, allowing yourself in a sense to be your own boss. How has it been adjusting to working with someone else and someone as professionally demanding and particular as Kanye?

I adapt easy. Ha.

Tags: matt george
Posted in Back Issue, Boy Meets Girl, Features, Issue 4 | 5 Comments »

Reid Stewart and Lifetime

Monday, June 1st, 2009

Reid Stewart by Kale Friesen.

Even though Reid Stewart, co-founder and creative director of Lifetime, had no formal training when he launched the brand in 2002, he chose to make his life all about art and design. As the name of the brand indicates, Lifetime offers clothing for a life well-lived‚Äîas defined by the wearer. Though, in a sense, Lifetime was also birthed from the extreme alienation of the ’90s. After all, it was the sentiment that skateboarding was starting to become boring and corporate that pushed Reid and co-founder Trevor Fleming to start Lifetime. Like most street wear brands, Lifetime began as a DIY t-shirt line; however, it has seen enormous growth in goods and distribution, and now offers full high-quality collections selling internationally in over 300 stores. And even though making women‚Äôs clothing might not seem like it would be on the priorities list, it was important to them to appeal to both sexes. For that reason, Lifetime has always had clothes for women too.

Reid gave hearty the rundown on designing the women‚Äôs side of the brand, his various inspirations and the exclusive first look at Lifetime‚Äôs women‚Äôs line for Fall ‚Äô09. However you choose to live your life, with Lifetime it‚Äôs all about nice things meant for living in.

What aspects are more difficult about designing women‚Äôs clothes in comparison to designing men‚Äôs clothes?

I think you have to be more critical of fit and the fabric you use, obviously. The styles change quicker from season to season.

Favorite women‚Äôs brands?

Not that these are specifically women‚Äôs collections, but I really like Rittenhouse, Anzevino and Florence, Acne, Mono (from Vancouver), Sunshine & Shadow, Manoush, Rachel Commey, and the list goes on and on.

Any females or women‚Äôs brands you‚Äôd like to collaborate with in the future?

We collaborated with our friend Heather Martin of Mono. I really love her work and would love to work with her again.

Do you consult with any specific women on the pieces?

I tend to consult a lot with my girlfriend and our friends all the time. We also work with our friend Theola Wong, who does pieces for us every season, along with our Production Manager, Angela Tan. My partner Trevor‚Äôs wife owns a really nice boutique here in Vancouver called One Of A Few. I‚Äôd imagine Trevor probably does the same.

What women have influenced you throughout your life?

I‚Äôd have to say my mom, my grandmother for living through the war and her stories about growing up in Ireland, the work of Nancy Spero, Gloria Steinem and Patti Smith. Too many, really.

Your pieces have the ability to look very different on different personalities. Is this something you intended to do and why?

We‚Äôve devised this magical mountain powder that is methodically sprinkled onto all of our clothing and really makes people look amazing. No kidding. I think we want our line to be available to people. Maybe it was a subconscious decision in our design that many types of people could wear it.

What are some of the projects you‚Äôre working in with The Collective?

The Collective was formed so we could be involved with our friends on all fronts. We‚Äôre currently working on two band tee shirts for our Spring 2010 collection. It‚Äôs an initiative we‚Äôve been doing for a few years now. It‚Äôs a way for us and The Collective to reach out into the community together. We‚Äôre working with Handsome Furs and My Morning Jacket. Proceeds from the sales of the tee shirts go to a non-profit of their choice. This time around Handsome Furs chose The Portland Hotel Society. They are an organization based here in Vancouver who help shelter homeless folks in the lower eastside of Vancouver. My Morning Jacket is working with the San Francisco-based 826 Valencia. A community based tutoring service that offers a variety of free programs and services throughout the school year and summer months, including drop-in tutoring, field trips, specialized workshops, in-school assistance, and extensive student publishing.

In Vancouver you have all terrains and the corresponding activities during different seasons at your fingertips‚Äîlike skating, surfing, snowboarding, biking. Do you think you could have created a brand that is influenced from all these genres without having been based in Vancouver? And how did where you grew up influence the brand?

I‚Äôm not sure. I grew up in a bunch of different places. Some of them had an influence on my work and some didn‚Äôt. I think if you really wanted to make a line that was geared for a different area in the world you could probably do it. That said, this city has had an effect on me for sure. With one of the worst drug and homelessness problems in North America, it has opened my eyes to that side of life and the politics that does or doesn‚Äôt affect the problem. The surfing, snowboarding and biking has been really influential on me as well. In a sense, it was those activities in my early youth that maybe got me into thinking about more social issues. Probably the skateboarding.

Aspects of the lifestyle, including music and art, play a large role in Lifetime. You‚Äôre a fan of Joe Strummer and punk. How has this influenced Lifetime?

Punk music, along with Joe Strummer‚Äôs work, had a huge influence on me and for sure had a big influence on Lifetime. I think the biggest influence it had on us was the fact it made you feel like you could do anything. People who didn‚Äôt know how to play music were playing music. Learning on the fly and being involved in a band. No one really cared what people thought of them.

What other music or musicians influence the brand?

For me, personally, all the bands we work with, for sure. I‚Äôve been listening to a lot of West African music these days, older jazz and lots of rock and roll. I‚Äôve been listening the drumming of Tony Allen quite a bit and the Fela Kuti stuff he was involved with.

Who are some emerging musicians or bands you‚Äôre into?

Lightning Dust, Ladyhawk, Tomahawk Lodge, Teen Anger, Timber Timbre, Moonrats, Sic Alps.

With all the side projects, collaborations and The Collective, you;re always working with art. Is this something you ever thought you‚Äôd be doing?

Never. I thought I was going to be an astronaut when I was a kid. That said, I‚Äôm really happy to be where I‚Äôm at with Lifetime.

Who are some of your favorite emerging artists?

Niall McClelland, Jeremy R. Jansen, my son Fin, Shawn Kuruneru, Anna Emilia Laitinen, Michael Swaney, Simon Redekop, Lukas Geronimas, Julie Morstad and Jody Rogac.

Your look books in the past have almost been like magazines, including editorial like Q&As with musicians. You‚Äôve just launched Selector, a bi-yearly arts and culture publication. Is journalism and publishing something you‚Äôve always wanted to do?

Absolutely. Especially when you get to do it with a good friend. Selector is Michael Carter and I. It‚Äôs been a great experience meeting new people and getting to talk with folks we otherwise wouldn‚Äôt have. We just got back from Tokyo, curating our first show with a gallery over there. The show was based of our first issue. I would hope we could expand into other realms after we get this off the ground.

You sometimes invite fans to design for the brand through competitions, which brings in new creativity and keeps things fresh. How has the experience been for you?

It‚Äôs been great and another byproduct of listening to punk rock. We like to include people in what we do. We don‚Äôt want to be that brand that is way too cool it can‚Äôt work with its fans or people that are into the brand. The last one we had was amazing, and thanks to Oli Van Roost for setting it up. It was called Cut & Sew and was based in Montreal. The contestants designed for a sewing challenge with twenty teams. They were given thirty days to design and assemble a garment out of old Lifetime garments and make something new. We were so impressed with the results that we have included five pieces for this year‚Äôs Fall 2010 collection.

There always seems to be special or added features to each piece clothing. Why is this something that‚Äôs important to you?

It was something we just had always done or wanted to do. It separates us from other brands and gives the piece uniqueness.

If you weren‚Äôt doing what you‚Äôre doing, you would be‚Ä¶

Never had a plan b.

Where’s your heart at?

120 beats per minute.

Tags: Lifetime, reid stewart
Posted in Back Issue, Boy Meets Girl, Features, Issue 3 | 4 Comments »

Lemar and Dauley

Monday, May 4th, 2009

We talk to Kareem Blair about the upcoming Lemar and Dauley women’s line.

By: Hana May

When Kareem Blair and Manhattan launched Lemar and Dauley in 2003, they quickly started gaining the recognition they needed to develop, even though the marketplace for streetwear was still quite small. Kareem says they were ‚Äòfilling an emotional void and visually expressing a collective consciousness that suddenly had the ability to express their interest or ideas through their clothing and footwear.‚Äô The brand grew quickly and three years later they launched the women‚Äôs faction, Hiqee. Kareem says they offered females the opportunity to be involved in streetwear without looking to masculine or boyish. ‚ÄòIt was instantly successful perhaps due to its association with L&D,‚Äô he adds.

But then, even though Lemar and Dauley kept up with the streetwear calendar, things slowed down and the guys seemed to pull back from the industry a little. Hiqee disappeared. They had spent more money than they were making. They needed to regroup and take it back to how their roots–using the outlet to express themselves and make a living.

Now, Lemar and Dauley seems to be back at it, having just launched a new website, recently dropping their third shoe with DC, and most importantly (at least in our opinion) making women‚Äôs gear again (women‚Äôs Fall ‚Äò09 will be their first collection and will be available online).

What happened to Hiqee? Why did you stop doing a women‚Äôs line?

Kareem: Unfortunately L&D was growing faster than we could accommodate at the time, so we were unequipped to handle the responsibilities that were involved with two developing companies. We were quickly facing a lot of obstacles in menswear that required greater detail and decision making, so we decided that moving forward with a women‚Äôs line would be a disadvantage for both L&D and Hiqee.

What made you decide to start designing for women again? Why now especially given the economy?

Kareem: The demand in our inboxes. [Laughs.] It wasn‚Äôt exactly a moment of discovery in our abilities as much as we learned females desired it. The current economy will not hurt the female launch as it was planned as a small launch to begin with. We had no intention of designing prom dresses, so it will be a natural extension of L&D. In fact it will actually assist with the factory minimums, so it‚Äôs a financial benefit in more ways than one.

What is the biggest difference for you between designing men‚Äôs and designing women‚Äôs?

Kareem: As of now, there is very little difference in designing for both men and women. We are only moving with designs that reflect the culture of L&D, so it is not a matter of separating the line into boys vs. girls. Its just L&D. The only difference really is fit.

kareem-blair-1

Will the women’s line be under Lemar and Dauley or Hiquee? Will there ever be another Hiqee?

Kareem: It will be under Lemar and Dauley. It will cater to the L&D Boy who has a girlfriend or sister and the girl who is tired of stealing her boyfriend or brother’s sweatshirt. [Laughs.] As for Hiqee, that‚Äôs a subject we will ponder down the road.

What sort of look will women’s Fall ‘09 have? What women inspired the line?

Kareem: The line will consist of tees, fleece sweatsuits and flannels. It will get filled out with accessories such as backpacks, socks and work-out duffles. I can‚Äôt really say we had any particular girl in mind, but Lauren London and Christina Milan fit the type. If we overlook their fame, they both have a ‚Äòcute girl on college campus‚Äô vibe.

Who are women you consulted with?

We didn‚Äôt, we just went on our instinct. We’ll see if that was smart decision later this year. [Laughs.]

What can we expect after Fall ‘09? And where are you hoping to take the women’s side of things?

Kareem: We will continue to build on its success determined by Fall ‚Äò09. If everything goes as planned, it will be an extension of the L&D culture, regardless of whether it was designed for men or women. We will build on the interest of our audience.

What do you think the female streetwear customer is like today?

Kareem: Wow, that‚Äôs a tough question, because she is just as hard to determine as women naturally are. [Laughs.] I wouldn‚Äôt even attempt to categorize her. I‚Äôll say that she is very perceptive, intelligent and ambitious to develop her own ideas in business. This has been the overall consensus between the women we have had the pleasure of knowing and the females who contact us online.

Top 3 female artists/musicians:

My partner Manhattan would have been better to answer this question as he has a more extensive knowledge of music, but ill take an attempt. In no particular order:

Anita Baker
Sade
Ella Fitzgerald
Honorable Mention: TLC (Crazysexycool Album)

Top 3 favorite female brands:

Rugby
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Juicy Couture

Kareem: Not sure if most women would agree, since I don‚Äôt actually wear any of the brands listed, but I based the answers on a consistent brand message and each company knowing who their customer is.

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Is there anyone you’d like to collaborate with as far as the women’s line?

Kareem: Probably Betsey Johnson on a prom dress. [Laughs.]
What kind of aspects on the new site will be for the ladies?

Kareem: We will provide detailed access into the activities of the L&D Boys in business and sometimes personal, while providing great interviews and video segments with artist that women admire and appreciate. We are aiming to fill voids between boys and girls. There is too much mis-communication between us.

Where‚Äôs your heart at?

Kareem: Great question. Truthfully my heart is in a weird place because the desire came sooner than expected. My heart is in teaching. I feel so much information has been lost due to the amount of distractions that are present. I don‚Äôt wish to remove the distractions, because that is way beyond my power, [Laughs.] but I would like to begin to lead kids towards a better means in which to transfer their distractions into setting positive goals and ultimately having careers. When we started L&D it was a distraction to school, but along the way, the desire to be successful helped me place my goals, ideals and passion into the proper context. I would like to offer younger people a direction in how to begin to channel their energy.

Posted in Back Issue, Boy Meets Girl, Features, Issue 2 | 1 Comment »

EXCLUSIVE LOOK AT THE CROOKS AND CASTLES NEW WOMEN’S LINE

Monday, March 30th, 2009

EXCLUSIVE LOOK AT THE CROOKS AND CASTLES NEW WOMEN’S LINE

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words: Hana May

photos: Kenza

styling: Mira Catherine

It’s been a long time coming. Even the mother of the owner and founder of Crooks and Castles was harassing her son to do a women’s line. And although the economic climate may be less than temperate, Dennis Calvero is finally launching the female side of Crooks, set to hit stores this month.

Calvero started out the women’s line in the same vein as the men’s—with a couple graphic tees. They were tested out at the Crooks’ shop in LA and according to Calvero, ‘flew out within weeks.’ The summer line will be mostly graphic tees but Fall will take the line further to include cut and sew pieces and an Hermes inspired tote. And hearty has the exclusive first sneak peak.

When you walk into the Crooks shop on Melrose you can’t tell the difference between client and staffs—loyal male customers rep the brand just as hard as the family of employees. However, Calvero has less confidence in female buying patterns, which he thinks are based more on fit than brand loyalty. I sat down with Dennis on the upper level of the store to talk about why he chose to delve into a girls line now, where it’s going and what kind of girls he’d like to see sporting the gear. He also dished on the new Crooks and Castles store opening up on Sunset.

Who designed the line?

The stuff that’s out now, I did. It’s mainly taking a lot of our core graphics just to get a lot of that early following to have on tees for girls. It was more graphic stuff and most of that comes from me anyways. And the stuff that we designed for Fall Emil our designer, who you know, did a couple cut and sew pieces. I did the majority of the tees. My other graphic designer Brett Paige did, I think one or two graphics and then I had a couple knockoff Hermes bags from China that we sent to a factory to knockoff. We’re actually opening up a new store on Sunset.

Oh cool. Tell me about it.

On Sunset, just past La Cienega. We just signed a lease for a 4,000 sq feet space that’s going to be a storefront that’s more concept based. It’s going to carry like our Illuminati line, the more higher contemporary stuff. We’re going to dabble into candles, fragrances, maybe a footwear line. It’s more of like a front for us to test certain things and plus it’s a more upscale customer up there. And then it’s going to be our office as well, we’ll probably have 1,500 feet of store and the rest will be office and show room.

So you’re consolidating everything there?

Right exactly. Right now we’re around the corner on Fairfax, we’re outgrowing that spot and everyone’s over there, so we’re kind of over it, like we need a new look.

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You didn’t want to open up in a different city?

We do. We were going to do Vegas but I think were going to hold of for now, we’re looking at San Francisco cause the majority of our customers that come on the weekend are from The Bay. They drive down like 6, 7 hours, just to shop.

Those are serious customers.

Yeah and we want to do New York but…

The rent is so expensive.

Yeah. Not so much the rent, we just want to make sure we’re in the right area and I guess right now it’s ideal to get a spot right?

I’m sure there’s deals.

I don’t know we’ll see. Maybe like a couple of the other brands will decide to open up down there, then we’ll like try to build a little community with them.

What inspired the women’s line?

Mainly we looked at our brand and basically we said ‘ok this is what our core following is, obviously this is what’s going to attract our women’s customer,’ and at the same time it helps to have Hellz Bellz next to our office. [Laughs.]

Right. [Laughs.]

So every now and then I’ll go in there and look around—ask for like paper clips and I’ll look around.

You’re totally spying on their stuff. Like ‘oh really, is that what you’re doing?’

[Laughs.] Yeah. But I think we’re both instrumental in each other’s growth so I don’t know, I mean I shop with my wife every weekend. We do the Marc Jacobs, the Louis, we got to Opening Ceremony and look at all the brands there and we were in New York for three and a half years, so that’s all there is to do anyways shopping and drink, right.

Was it a big leap for the cut and sew pieces?

Not so much because there was still knit based hoodies and stuff. We did like a button up woven and a sweater and then we wanted to like get into denim, which is a really hard thing to do for women—and you know we’re in LA and all the women’s denim brands started out here—and mainly build the accessory part. We’ve been approached by a couple licensees to give them the license for women’s, but for me working at Ecko, I could see how that could either be a really good thing or a nightmare so we’re still balancing that out.

What kind of women do you want to see wearing your stuff?

Hmm. Other than women like yourself. [Laughs.] I guess mainly a more knowledgeable customer to our lifestyle, I don’t want to say a streetwear customer because there isn’t too many streetwear brands for women other than like Stussy, Hellz Bellz, 10 Deep does a little here and there, but just like the girls that really understand what we’re doing and where we come from and if they like it, they like it.

What are some of your favorite female brands?

I like Marc by Marc Jacobs, I like them a lot. Theory, I kind of like Theory some of the stuff they do. I love Hellz Bellz I think Bam and Lawn are amazing designers—they really understand their market and even some of the Stussy women’s stuff like the main designer there is a friend of mine Pauline, way back before I had Crooks and Castles and she really understands the market and has really good style. I’m trying to think, like higher end brands I like Luis Vuitton for their accessories. I like the basics for American apparel and what they offer. Oh and I like Rag and Bone.

Given the economy right now, does it worry you at all to be starting up this whole other faction?

No, not really. We kind of felt like us going into other categories kind of helped pick up the slack from the men’s. So right now we’re trying to launch footwear, either that or go into a footwear license We want to go into kids. The women’s obviously and will hopefully just become like one of these other bigger brands and have longevity. The one thing that did help with the recession is it kind of weeded out the up and coming brands. You know the start-ups.

So past Fall what can women expect?

Past Fall, I think a more well-rounded collection. We definitely want to have the right accessories like bags, wallets and sunglasses. I think the quicker we are at getting the men’s stuff done which we know like the back of our hand—that allows us to do more research on the women’s and all that.

Are there any people you want to collaborate with?

I haven’t really thought about that. I’d like to do something with porter on like an accessories level of course probably do something with Hellz Bellz.

You guys can just throw t-shirts at each other.

Yeah. [Laughs.] I don’t know, if I could pick I’d love to do something with Goyard just like their whole thing they have and then I don’t know, I guess that’s probably it.

Where’s your heart at?

Right now it’s with my unborn child.

Aw. So exciting. Congratulations!

[Laughs.] I’m hoping for a girl and then in 10 years, you can interview her.

Yeah, she can rock the women’s brand too.