Archive for the ‘Boy Meets Girl’ Category

Reid Stewart and Lifetime

Monday, June 1st, 2009

reid-stewart-lifetime

Reid Stewart by Kale Friesen.

Even though Reid Stewart, co-founder and creative director of Lifetime, had no formal training when he launched the brand in 2002, he chose to make his life all about art and design. As the name of the brand indicates, Lifetime offers clothing for a life well-lived‚Äîas defined by the wearer. Though, in a sense, Lifetime was also birthed from the extreme alienation of the ’90s. After all, it was the sentiment that skateboarding was starting to become boring and corporate that pushed Reid and co-founder Trevor Fleming to start Lifetime. Like most street wear brands, Lifetime began as a DIY t-shirt line; however, it has seen enormous growth in goods and distribution, and now offers full high-quality collections selling internationally in over 300 stores. And even though making women‚Äôs clothing might not seem like it would be on the priorities list, it was important to them to appeal to both sexes. For that reason, Lifetime has always had clothes for women too.

Reid gave hearty the rundown on designing the women’s side of the brand, his various inspirations and the exclusive first look at Lifetime’s women’s line for Fall ’09. However you choose to live your life, with Lifetime it’s all about nice things meant for living in.

What aspects are more difficult about designing women’s clothes in comparison to designing men’s clothes?

I think you have to be more critical of fit and the fabric you use, obviously. The styles change quicker from season to season.

Favorite women’s brands?

Not that these are specifically women’s collections, but I really like Rittenhouse, Anzevino and Florence, Acne, Mono (from Vancouver), Sunshine & Shadow, Manoush, Rachel Commey, and the list goes on and on.

Any females or women’s brands you’d like to collaborate with in the future?

We collaborated with our friend Heather Martin of Mono. I really love her work and would love to work with her again.

Do you consult with any specific women on the pieces?

I tend to consult a lot with my girlfriend and our friends all the time. We also work with our friend Theola Wong, who does pieces for us every season, along with our Production Manager, Angela Tan. My partner Trevor’s wife owns a really nice boutique here in Vancouver called One Of A Few. I’d imagine Trevor probably does the same.

What women have influenced you throughout your life?

I’d have to say my mom, my grandmother for living through the war and her stories about growing up in Ireland, the work of Nancy Spero, Gloria Steinem and Patti Smith. Too many, really.

Your pieces have the ability to look very different on different personalities. Is this something you intended to do and why?

We’ve devised this magical mountain powder that is methodically sprinkled onto all of our clothing and really makes people look amazing. No kidding. I think we want our line to be available to people. Maybe it was a subconscious decision in our design that many types of people could wear it.

What are some of the projects you’re working in with The Collective?

The Collective was formed so we could be involved with our friends on all fronts. We’re currently working on two band tee shirts for our Spring 2010 collection. It’s an initiative we’ve been doing for a few years now. It’s a way for us and The Collective to reach out into the community together. We’re working with Handsome Furs and My Morning Jacket. Proceeds from the sales of the tee shirts go to a non-profit of their choice. This time around Handsome Furs chose The Portland Hotel Society. They are an organization based here in Vancouver who help shelter homeless folks in the lower eastside of Vancouver. My Morning Jacket is working with the San Francisco-based 826 Valencia. A community based tutoring service that offers a variety of free programs and services throughout the school year and summer months, including drop-in tutoring, field trips, specialized workshops, in-school assistance, and extensive student publishing.
lifetime-womens-fall-09-lookbook-2


In Vancouver you have all terrains and the corresponding activities during different seasons at your fingertips—like skating, surfing, snowboarding, biking. Do you think you could have created a brand that is influenced from all these genres without having been based in Vancouver? And how did where you grew up influence the brand?

I’m not sure. I grew up in a bunch of different places. Some of them had an influence on my work and some didn’t. I think if you really wanted to make a line that was geared for a different area in the world you could probably do it. That said, this city has had an effect on me for sure. With one of the worst drug and homelessness problems in North America, it has opened my eyes to that side of life and the politics that does or doesn’t affect the problem. The surfing, snowboarding and biking has been really influential on me as well. In a sense, it was those activities in my early youth that maybe got me into thinking about more social issues. Probably the skateboarding.

Aspects of the lifestyle, including music and art, play a large role in Lifetime. You’re a fan of Joe Strummer and punk. How has this influenced Lifetime?

Punk music, along with Joe Strummer’s work, had a huge influence on me and for sure had a big influence on Lifetime. I think the biggest influence it had on us was the fact it made you feel like you could do anything. People who didn’t know how to play music were playing music. Learning on the fly and being involved in a band. No one really cared what people thought of them.

What other music or musicians influence the brand?

For me, personally, all the bands we work with, for sure. I’ve been listening to a lot of West African music these days, older jazz and lots of rock and roll. I’ve been listening the drumming of Tony Allen quite a bit and the Fela Kuti stuff he was involved with.

Who are some emerging musicians or bands you’re into?

Lightning Dust, Ladyhawk, Tomahawk Lodge, Teen Anger, Timber Timbre, Moonrats, Sic Alps.

lifetime-womens-fall-09-lookbook

With all the side projects, collaborations and The Collective, you;re always working with art. Is this something you ever thought you’d be doing?

Never. I thought I was going to be an astronaut when I was a kid. That said, I’m really happy to be where I’m at with Lifetime.

Who are some of your favorite emerging artists?

Niall McClelland, Jeremy R. Jansen, my son Fin, Shawn Kuruneru, Anna Emilia Laitinen, Michael Swaney, Simon Redekop, Lukas Geronimas, Julie Morstad and Jody Rogac.

Your look books in the past have almost been like magazines, including editorial like Q&As with musicians. You’ve just launched Selector, a bi-yearly arts and culture publication. Is journalism and publishing something you’ve always wanted to do?

Absolutely. Especially when you get to do it with a good friend. Selector is Michael Carter and I. It’s been a great experience meeting new people and getting to talk with folks we otherwise wouldn’t have. We just got back from Tokyo, curating our first show with a gallery over there. The show was based of our first issue. I would hope we could expand into other realms after we get this off the ground.

You sometimes invite fans to design for the brand through competitions, which brings in new creativity and keeps things fresh. How has the experience been for you?

It’s been great and another byproduct of listening to punk rock. We like to include people in what we do. We don’t want to be that brand that is way too cool it can’t work with its fans or people that are into the brand. The last one we had was amazing, and thanks to Oli Van Roost for setting it up. It was called Cut & Sew and was based in Montreal. The contestants designed for a sewing challenge with twenty teams. They were given thirty days to design and assemble a garment out of old Lifetime garments and make something new. We were so impressed with the results that we have included five pieces for this year’s Fall 2010 collection.

lifetime-womens-fall-09-lookbook-3

There always seems to be special or added features to each piece clothing. Why is this something that’s important to you?

It was something we just had always done or wanted to do. It separates us from other brands and gives the piece uniqueness.

If you weren’t doing what you’re doing, you would be…

Never had a plan b.

Where’s your heart at?

120 beats per minute.

lifetime-womens-fall-09

lifetime-womens-fall-09-kyoto

lifetime-womens-fall-09-turn-the-page

lifetime-womens-fall-09-two-arms-one-coat

lifetime-womens-fall-09-shake-it-to-the-ground

lifetime-womens-fall-09-secrets-by-theo-lawong

lifetime-womens-fall-09-nijo

lifetime-womens-fall-09-master

lifetime-womens-fall-09-ono

Lemar and Dauley

Monday, May 4th, 2009

lemar-and-dauley-logo

We talk to Kareem Blair about the upcoming Lemar and Dauley women’s line.
By: Hana May

When Kareem Blair and Manhattan launched Lemar and Dauley in 2003, they quickly started gaining the recognition they needed to develop, even though the marketplace for streetwear was still quite small. Kareem says they were ‘filling an emotional void and visually expressing a collective consciousness that suddenly had the ability to express their interest or ideas through their clothing and footwear.’ The brand grew quickly and three years later they launched the women’s faction, Hiqee. Kareem says they offered females the opportunity to be involved in streetwear without looking to masculine or boyish. ‘It was instantly successful perhaps due to its association with L&D,’ he adds.

But then, even though Lemar and Dauley kept up with the streetwear calendar, things slowed down and the guys seemed to pull back from the industry a little. Hiqee disappeared. They had spent more money than they were making. They needed to regroup and take it back to how their roots–using the outlet to express themselves and make a living.

Now, Lemar and Dauley seems to be back at it, having just launched a new website, recently dropping their third shoe with DC, and most importantly (at least in our opinion) making women’s gear again (women’s Fall ‘09 will be their first collection and will be available online).

What happened to Hiqee? Why did you stop doing a women’s line?

Kareem: Unfortunately L&D was growing faster than we could accommodate at the time, so we were unequipped to handle the responsibilities that were involved with two developing companies. We were quickly facing a lot of obstacles in menswear that required greater detail and decision making, so we decided that moving forward with a women’s line would be a disadvantage for both L&D and Hiqee.

What made you decide to start designing for women again? Why now especially given the economy?

Kareem: The demand in our inboxes. [Laughs.] It wasn’t exactly a moment of discovery in our abilities as much as we learned females desired it. The current economy will not hurt the female launch as it was planned as a small launch to begin with. We had no intention of designing prom dresses, so it will be a natural extension of L&D. In fact it will actually assist with the factory minimums, so it’s a financial benefit in more ways than one.

What is the biggest difference for you between designing men’s and designing women’s?

Kareem: As of now, there is very little difference in designing for both men and women. We are only moving with designs that reflect the culture of L&D, so it is not a matter of separating the line into boys vs. girls. Its just L&D. The only difference really is fit.

kareem-blair-1

Will the women’s line be under Lemar and Dauley or Hiquee? Will there ever be another Hiqee?

Kareem: It will be under Lemar and Dauley. It will cater to the L&D Boy who has a girlfriend or sister and the girl who is tired of stealing her boyfriend or brother’s sweatshirt. [Laughs.] As for Hiqee, that‚Äôs a subject we will ponder down the road.

What sort of look will women’s Fall ’09 have? What women inspired the line?

Kareem: The line will consist of tees, fleece sweatsuits and flannels. It will get filled out with accessories such as backpacks, socks and work-out duffles. I can’t really say we had any particular girl in mind, but Lauren London and Christina Milan fit the type. If we overlook their fame, they both have a ‘cute girl on college campus’ vibe.

Who are women you consulted with?

We didn‚Äôt, we just went on our instinct. We’ll see if that was smart decision later this year. [Laughs.]

What can we expect after Fall ’09? And where are you hoping to take the women’s side of things?

Kareem: We will continue to build on its success determined by Fall ‘09. If everything goes as planned, it will be an extension of the L&D culture, regardless of whether it was designed for men or women. We will build on the interest of our audience.

What do you think the female streetwear customer is like today?

Kareem: Wow, that’s a tough question, because she is just as hard to determine as women naturally are. [Laughs.] I wouldn’t even attempt to categorize her. I’ll say that she is very perceptive, intelligent and ambitious to develop her own ideas in business. This has been the overall consensus between the women we have had the pleasure of knowing and the females who contact us online.

Top 3 female artists/musicians:

My partner Manhattan would have been better to answer this question as he has a more extensive knowledge of music, but ill take an attempt. In no particular order:

Anita Baker
Sade
Ella Fitzgerald
Honorable Mention: TLC (Crazysexycool Album)

Top 3 favorite female brands:

Rugby
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Juicy Couture

Kareem: Not sure if most women would agree, since I don’t actually wear any of the brands listed, but I based the answers on a consistent brand message and each company knowing who their customer is.

kareem-blair

Is there anyone you’d like to collaborate with as far as the women’s line?

Kareem: Probably Betsey Johnson on a prom dress. [Laughs.]
What kind of aspects on the new site will be for the ladies?

Kareem: We will provide detailed access into the activities of the L&D Boys in business and sometimes personal, while providing great interviews and video segments with artist that women admire and appreciate. We are aiming to fill voids between boys and girls. There is too much mis-communication between us.

Where’s your heart at?

Kareem: Great question. Truthfully my heart is in a weird place because the desire came sooner than expected. My heart is in teaching. I feel so much information has been lost due to the amount of distractions that are present. I don’t wish to remove the distractions, because that is way beyond my power, [Laughs.] but I would like to begin to lead kids towards a better means in which to transfer their distractions into setting positive goals and ultimately having careers. When we started L&D it was a distraction to school, but along the way, the desire to be successful helped me place my goals, ideals and passion into the proper context. I would like to offer younger people a direction in how to begin to channel their energy.

EXCLUSIVE LOOK AT THE CROOKS AND CASTLES NEW WOMEN’S LINE

Monday, March 30th, 2009

EXCLUSIVE LOOK AT THE CROOKS AND CASTLES NEW WOMEN’S LINE

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-folded-shirts

words: Hana May
photos: Kenza
styling: Mira Catherine

It’s been a long time coming. Even the mother of the owner and founder of Crooks and Castles was harassing her son to do a women’s line. And although the economic climate may be less than temperate, Dennis Calvero is finally launching the female side of Crooks, set to hit stores this month.

Calvero started out the women’s line in the same vein as the men’s—with a couple graphic tees. They were tested out at the Crooks’ shop in LA and according to Calvero, ‘flew out within weeks.’ The summer line will be mostly graphic tees but Fall will take the line further to include cut and sew pieces and an Hermes inspired tote. And hearty has the exclusive first sneak peak.

When you walk into the Crooks shop on Melrose you can’t tell the difference between client and staffs—loyal male customers rep the brand just as hard as the family of employees. However, Calvero has less confidence in female buying patterns, which he thinks are based more on fit than brand loyalty. I sat down with Dennis on the upper level of the store to talk about why he chose to delve into a girls line now, where it’s going and what kind of girls he’d like to see sporting the gear. He also dished on the new Crooks and Castles store opening up on Sunset.

Who designed the line?

The stuff that’s out now, I did. It’s mainly taking a lot of our core graphics just to get a lot of that early following to have on tees for girls. It was more graphic stuff and most of that comes from me anyways. And the stuff that we designed for Fall Emil our designer, who you know, did a couple cut and sew pieces. I did the majority of the tees. My other graphic designer Brett Paige did, I think one or two graphics and then I had a couple knockoff Hermes bags from China that we sent to a factory to knockoff. We’re actually opening up a new store on Sunset.

Oh cool. Tell me about it.

On Sunset, just past La Cienega. We just signed a lease for a 4,000 sq feet space that’s going to be a storefront that’s more concept based. It’s going to carry like our Illuminati line, the more higher contemporary stuff. We’re going to dabble into candles, fragrances, maybe a footwear line. It’s more of like a front for us to test certain things and plus it’s a more upscale customer up there. And then it’s going to be our office as well, we’ll probably have 1,500 feet of store and the rest will be office and show room.

So you’re consolidating everything there?

Right exactly. Right now we’re around the corner on Fairfax, we’re outgrowing that spot and everyone’s over there, so we’re kind of over it, like we need a new look.

2_edcrook-and-castles-store

You didn’t want to open up in a different city?

We do. We were going to do Vegas but I think were going to hold of for now, we’re looking at San Francisco cause the majority of our customers that come on the weekend are from The Bay. They drive down like 6, 7 hours, just to shop.

Those are serious customers.

Yeah and we want to do New York but…

The rent is so expensive.

Yeah. Not so much the rent, we just want to make sure we’re in the right area and I guess right now it’s ideal to get a spot right?

I’m sure there’s deals.

I don’t know we’ll see. Maybe like a couple of the other brands will decide to open up down there, then we’ll like try to build a little community with them.

What inspired the women’s line?

Mainly we looked at our brand and basically we said ‘ok this is what our core following is, obviously this is what’s going to attract our women’s customer,’ and at the same time it helps to have Hellz Bellz next to our office. [Laughs.]

Right. [Laughs.]

So every now and then I’ll go in there and look around—ask for like paper clips and I’ll look around.

You’re totally spying on their stuff. Like ‘oh really, is that what you’re doing?’

[Laughs.] Yeah. But I think we’re both instrumental in each other’s growth so I don’t know, I mean I shop with my wife every weekend. We do the Marc Jacobs, the Louis, we got to Opening Ceremony and look at all the brands there and we were in New York for three and a half years, so that’s all there is to do anyways shopping and drink, right.

Was it a big leap for the cut and sew pieces?

Not so much because there was still knit based hoodies and stuff. We did like a button up woven and a sweater and then we wanted to like get into denim, which is a really hard thing to do for women—and you know we’re in LA and all the women’s denim brands started out here—and mainly build the accessory part. We’ve been approached by a couple licensees to give them the license for women’s, but for me working at Ecko, I could see how that could either be a really good thing or a nightmare so we’re still balancing that out.

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-plaidscrooks-and-castles-fall-09-signature

What kind of women do you want to see wearing your stuff?

Hmm. Other than women like yourself. [Laughs.] I guess mainly a more knowledgeable customer to our lifestyle, I don’t want to say a streetwear customer because there isn’t too many streetwear brands for women other than like Stussy, Hellz Bellz, 10 Deep does a little here and there, but just like the girls that really understand what we’re doing and where we come from and if they like it, they like it.

What are some of your favorite female brands?

I like Marc by Marc Jacobs, I like them a lot. Theory, I kind of like Theory some of the stuff they do. I love Hellz Bellz I think Bam and Lawn are amazing designers—they really understand their market and even some of the Stussy women’s stuff like the main designer there is a friend of mine Pauline, way back before I had Crooks and Castles and she really understands the market and has really good style. I’m trying to think, like higher end brands I like Luis Vuitton for their accessories. I like the basics for American apparel and what they offer. Oh and I like Rag and Bone.

Given the economy right now, does it worry you at all to be starting up this whole other faction?

No, not really. We kind of felt like us going into other categories kind of helped pick up the slack from the men’s. So right now we’re trying to launch footwear, either that or go into a footwear license We want to go into kids. The women’s obviously and will hopefully just become like one of these other bigger brands and have longevity. The one thing that did help with the recession is it kind of weeded out the up and coming brands. You know the start-ups.

So past Fall what can women expect?

Past Fall, I think a more well-rounded collection. We definitely want to have the right accessories like bags, wallets and sunglasses. I think the quicker we are at getting the men’s stuff done which we know like the back of our hand—that allows us to do more research on the women’s and all that.

Are there any people you want to collaborate with?

I haven’t really thought about that. I’d like to do something with porter on like an accessories level of course probably do something with Hellz Bellz.

You guys can just throw t-shirts at each other.

Yeah. [Laughs.] I don’t know, if I could pick I’d love to do something with Goyard just like their whole thing they have and then I don’t know, I guess that’s probably it.

Where’s your heart at?

Right now it’s with my unborn child.

Aw. So exciting. Congratulations!

[Laughs.] I’m hoping for a girl and then in 10 years, you can interview her.

Yeah, she can rock the women’s brand too.

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-messy-shirts

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-folded-sweaters

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-folded-messy-shirts

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-folded-shirts-sweaters

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-signaturecrooks-and-castles-fall-09-black-sweater

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-plaid

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-logo

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-bag

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-bag- folded-shirts

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-bag-messy

crooks-and-castles-fall-09-face

Related Posts with Thumbnails